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Forum > Fitting Woes > How do I deal with princess seams? ( Moderated by Deepika, Jacqui315)

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How do I deal with princess seams?
Wedding dress large hip alteration
blehman
blehman
Member since 8/30/12
Posts: 2
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Date: 9/24/12 6:08 AM

Background. My daughter has put on quite a weight since we bought her original wedding dress pattern (vogue2965) and her hips and waist measurements are off the charts. I can do simple alterations, but we've agreed the bias princess seam alterations of this pattern are beyond me - we'd have to increase by 6 inches and waist by 3 inches).

So we found an alternate pattern (simplicity 1909) that has a similar neckline and princess seams that are not on the bias, goes higher in sizes and more forgiving to her lumps and bumps (she's not wearing spanks). So I'm still going to have to alter for the hips, but not as much. Whew, now for the actual question:

How do I handle the hip alteration for on the grain princess seams? Do I spread the increase among all the skirt pieces (front and back) or just do the side seams?

I'm new to this forum, but just with the reading I've been doing, y'all have given me inmeasureable help.

Beth
StitchWench
StitchWench
AUSTRALIA
Member since 2/17/06
Posts: 120
Skill: Beginner
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Date: 9/24/12 7:32 AM

Personally, I spread the extra width out over every seam because each addition is small and it's easier to keep the lovely smooth curves of each pattern piece.

Best wishes for smooth sewing and trouble free fitting.

HTH
Miss Fairchild
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Miss Fairchild
USA
Member since 8/24/02
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In reply to blehman

Date: 9/24/12 7:59 AM

Do you have a curved ruler, such as a French curve? french curve ruler This is helpful when you are making the transition of adding (or subtracting) circumference below the bustline and going toward the hips. If not, you need to freehand the curve. And you spread the increase among all the seam allowances; including the princess seams, so the dress will hang straight. Divide the amount to add by the number of seams. Make marks at the hipline, and waistline. (You will more than likely need to add more to the waistline as well, because if her hips have changed, I would imagine her high hip has as well). Then use a french curve to make the new seam allowances. A video is Here: click here

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blehman
blehman
Member since 8/30/12
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Date: 9/24/12 4:31 PM

Ladies, thanks for you replies. I'll add the hip curve to the items my son is picking up for me at the fabric store tomorrow.

couturemom
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couturemom
North Carolina USA
Member since 7/19/11
Posts: 115
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Date: 9/25/12 11:52 AM

If you're adding to each seamline, one thing to check when fitting the muslin is whether the side seams hang straight and are in the right place. Otherwise, it's possible you may have to adjust the front and back pieces differently.
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