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Forum > Fitting Woes > grading down a pattern and using a knit ( Moderated by Deepika, Jacqui315)

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grading down a pattern and using a knit
blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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Date: 9/25/12 3:15 PM

I have a pattern that is the correct size for me. However, I would like to make it in a stretch knit and the pattern calls for a woven. I read somewhere one time to just make the pattern a size smaller. However, my size is the smallest size on the pattern. I would just buy the envelope that has the smaller size, but this is a pattern I bought at a thrift store, so it is way out of print. If I just grade it down a size, do you think that would work?
-- Edited on 9/25/12 3:15 PM --
rmusic1
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rmusic1
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In reply to blessedtosew

Date: 9/25/12 3:34 PM

I have made one dress recently in a knit. The pattern said you could use a knit or woven. It was my first ever knit dress. I wanted to play it safe, so only went down (at cutting stage) one size at the waist and cut everything else in my usual size.

My knit was very stretchy and I ended up taking in one size at the hips, at least 2 sizes down from my original waist size and I think it still needs taking in. So yes, I would go down at least one size overall.

I would look at the size change between your current size and the next size up and use that as a guide to size down. Good luck!
Aixoise
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Aixoise  Friend of PR
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Date: 9/25/12 5:27 PM

How stable is your knit? And how heavy? Amount of stretch and thinness or thickness of fabric could make a difference in the size you need.
Elona
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Elona  Friend of PR
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In reply to blessedtosew

Date: 9/25/12 8:44 PM

In general, you can use a knit for any pattern designed for wovens (can't go the other way, though). However, as has been pointed out, the stretch and weight of your knit are factors. A firm cotton double knit should be almost perfectly interchangeable with a woven, but a thin, stretchy rayon/lycra could be another kettle of fish.

The neck and shoulders--from which the garment hangs--should be about the same. The tricky bits are the amount of ease around the bust, waist, and hips.

Why not either overlay or flat-pattern measure your woven pattern with a favorite knit pattern, to compare the shape and ease?
-- Edited on 9/25/12 8:45 PM --

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Elona

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