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Message Board > Fitting Woes > fisheye darts for pants ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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fisheye darts for pants
dealing with the crotch
blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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AL USA
Member since 4/16/08
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Date: 9/28/12 2:53 PM

I have made pants unsuccessfully a few times because I have always had a problem with back seat bagginess under my rear. I recently became aware of the fisheye dart. I made up a pants muslin last night and pinned out the extra and it seemed to fix my problem. There seems to be several ways to transfer this to the back pattern piece, but the least painful to me seems to be this one I have done everything the tutorial says except it does not specifically say how to handle the crotch. It appears that you are supposed "true" the unevenness on the inseam after folding out the excess bagginess, but I am not sure. Does anyone know? I know there are more complicated ways of doing this, but I really want to stick with this one right now. It appears from the pics below that is what was done. Wouldn't you think if it was more than that the topic would have been addressed?
crotch unevenness
unevenness fixed

-- Edited on 9/28/12 2:56 PM --

simplystitches
simplystitches
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Date: 9/28/12 11:06 PM

I've done a couple of different fisheye's and you need to true up the seam from the wide part downward.

Debbie

brtremblay
brtremblay  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/14/12 11:40 PM

Hello,

When I look at your alteration, it seems to me that the amount that you remove below the crotch is merely added back at the hem. It all comes to the same in the end I find.
Please use the web link below and pay attention to the fact that what is removed under the crotch is added at the sideseam/waist area only and the tip of the back croth point as well. You do not add anything at the hem.

Website link:
Fisheye dart

http://web.archive.org/web/20070104110614/http://216.25.11.234/familyphotos/sewing/info/KK_fisheye_dart/index.html

Please let me know what you think and good luck with your alteration.

Bruno from Montreal
-- Edited on 10/17/12 11:16 PM --

solosmocker
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solosmocker
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Date: 10/16/12 7:08 AM

That hem addition had me confused as well. I do as Bruno suggests which I believe is Debbie Cook's fabulous method. I can't access Bruno's link so not sure. Search out Debbie Cook on this board for much more.

------
http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/17/12 1:15 PM

Thanks everyone for your help. I just lengthened at the hem. However my pants did not work out. They fit well in the rear, but there was this weird wrinkling along the side seams. I think some of that may have been due to the fabric, but I gave up and tossed them. The fabric was a stretch polyester suiting fabric. I am so hard on myself when it comes to pants. I will wear RTW that doesn't fit perfectly, so why do I beat myself up over imperfect pants I have sewn. I so desperately want to make a pair I am happy with. The reason for my unhappiness, I suspect, is that I don't take pictures of my RTW pants to see how they look on me. If I did, I would probably be just as unhappy.
I think before I completely give up on this pattern, I am going to make some out of a different type of fabric.

-- Edited on 10/17/12 2:54 PM --

blue mooney
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blue mooney
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In reply to blessedtosew <<


Date: 10/17/12 4:59 PM

Quote: blessedtosew
I think before I completely give up on this pattern, I am going to make some out of a different type of fabric.


-- Edited on 10/17/12 2:54 PM --

Yes, yes, yes! If you got the rear looking right, you have won the battle! I bet you ten bucks the rippling side seams were due to the fabric. Don't ever toss a pants pattern that has a well-fitted rear!

------
--Robyn
sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/
illustration blog: http://storybooky.wordpress.com/

blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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In reply to blue mooney <<


Date: 10/17/12 5:06 PM

I will make another pair. I have about 4 yards of some suiting fabric I bought from fabricmartfabrics for about $1.99 per yard. It is not as icky-stretchy polyester-y as what I used. It has more of a tropical wool feel. I am a glutton for punishment so I am going to have another go at it. I am going to bravely post pics of my pants that I threw away--Can someone tell me what is wrong? This is Burda 7447
back

side
-- Edited on 10/17/12 5:18 PM --

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
Intermediate
MN USA
Member since 4/3/10
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Date: 10/17/12 7:37 PM

This is a fit issue that is so typical for many of us. Please join us at the Year of Pants Challenge . If you scroll to page 50 and look at Simplystitches' photos and pattern alteration I think you will have found your solution.

I hope this helps you. Don't give up on pants. You have a perfect figure and can get the fit issues worked out.

------
Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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In reply to MNBarb <<


Date: 10/17/12 8:49 PM

Thanks for that link. Should I do this (Alteration 1) instead of the fisheye dart or should I do it after? Also, is Alteration 2 just a different way to accomplish the same thing as Alteration 1? I know I am probably being dense.

sewsally
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sewsally  Friend of PR
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WA USA
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/17/12 10:46 PM

Back crotch is giving you a wedgie.

If you open up that seam it will spread open to what is should be. Add that to your pattern.

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