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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > cut pencil skirt on bias? ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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cut pencil skirt on bias?
LDT2011
LDT2011
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Date: 10/1/12 5:00 AM

I'm just wondering (the pattern doesn't call for it) but would cutting a pencil skirt on the bias give me a bit of 'wiggle room'?
Just a bit worried about sitting down and busting my seams. lol

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westmoon
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In reply to LDT2011 <<


Date: 10/1/12 6:07 AM

I've never made a bias pencil skirt but I've owned an RTW one. I found it rode up when I sat down more than a similar skirt on the grain. This was unfortunate as it was already just about as short as I wear a skirt and therefore shorter than I liked when I sat down -- a lot of leg on show!

I do have this Threads article bookmarked about bias cut garments -- it's mainly about bias cut tops but it might still be helpful in terms of choosing fabrics etc.

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Marie367
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In reply to LDT2011 <<


Date: 10/1/12 10:26 AM

My guess is that you will have problems cutting it on the bias but I have not done that so maybe you wouldn't. Can you use a material with some stretch? That would give you more give than the ease in the pattern. You can increase the ease by reducing (or adding to when cut) the side seams but you might not get the look that you want if it is very tight fitting. HTH

heathergwo
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Date: 10/1/12 11:16 AM

I don't think it would hang properly. It might not look terrible if you're just standing, but I think as soon as you tried to walk, it would start moving in a way that wouldn't work and then, yes, the riding up issue.

I agree with other poster to just choose a fabric that has some stretch to it.

But let us know what you end up doing and how it works out!

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Elona
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In reply to LDT2011 <<


Date: 10/1/12 12:32 PM

It can be done, and in fact there are some patterns out there for bias-cut straight skirts (many of them are classic old Vogue designer patterns). However, the thing is that they're not cut skin-tight; the bias is a design feature singled out for its 'hang,' not exactly as a substitute for a stretch garment. Special fitting and construction techniques are used, too, and many of these are described in the Marcy Tilton article linked above by westmoon.

Here is a straight skirt pattern designed to be done on the bias.

And
among these are some images of RTW pencil skirts cut on the bias.
-- Edited on 10/1/12 12:37 PM --

LDT2011
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Date: 10/2/12 5:07 AM

Thanks for all the feedback. Its helped me decide to stick to original pattern rather than cutting on bias.

Swing stretch is not possibility as I don't use a sewing machine and have yet to find a stitch thats neat enough by hand to cope with the stretch.

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Nancy K
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In reply to LDT2011 <<


Date: 10/3/12 11:16 AM

If you need more room just add ease. A bias skirt would need a cf seam added so that the bias doesn't run across since this will give you uneven stretch. You also need to cut a bias garment with much larger sas and mark the seam lines since the whole piece will stretch and you can't use the edges to sew from.

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