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Forum > Fitting Woes > Gathered bodice with FBA ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Gathered bodice with FBA
How to adjust the gathered pattern piece
j Renee Design
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j Renee Design
Intermediate
Wisconsin USA
Member since 7/26/10
Posts: 671
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Date: 10/1/12 3:23 PM

So, I'm hoping to sew Butterick 4657 this month, and automatically know I will need a FBA. I typically avoid patterns with gathering over the bust, unless they're knits, because I'm not quite sure how to alter the gathered pattern piece.

What would you do? Analyze the original pattern piece compared to the original gathered piece and then adjust the altered pieces from there, or just wing it and add any additional needed length and just add a couple more inches for gathering along the width?

Any pointers would be awesome!

------
Jess
Sewing, Knitting, Living: http://www.sometimessewist.wordpress.com

2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 76 1/8, Used: 85 3/4, Stashed: 76 3/8

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
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Oregon USA
Member since 8/24/02
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Date: 10/1/12 4:56 PM

For pin fitting, pin in the gathers like they are already sewn, then determine the fba.
Make a bust dart and rotate it into the gathers. You can put them all at the waist or the shoulder or split them between depending on how big the alteration is.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

j Renee Design
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j Renee Design
Intermediate
Wisconsin USA
Member since 7/26/10
Posts: 671
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In reply to diane s <<


Date: 10/1/12 5:35 PM

I understand how to turn a dart into gathers, but this pattern has an underlining, lining and then the shell fabric, and only the shell is gathered (maybe the correct word is ruched in this situation, since it's gathered on two sides of the pattern piece?)

I'm just trying to figure out how I can get the shell ruching to correspond with the underlining/lining pieces to which a FBA has been applied. I know if I leave the pattern piece as is (adding some length, of course) that it won't look gathered/ruched enough.

Do I just apply the same FBA to the overlay piece? Or will that not provide enough additional ruching to match the original piece?

It's kind of hard to explain. Do I make any sense?
-- Edited on 10/1/12 5:38 PM --

------
Jess
Sewing, Knitting, Living: http://www.sometimessewist.wordpress.com

2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 76 1/8, Used: 85 3/4, Stashed: 76 3/8

tinflutterby
tinflutterby  Friend of PR
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California USA
Member since 8/9/11
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Date: 10/2/12 1:13 AM

You are making sense. I would compare the unaltered underlining with the ungathered shell to see how much they added for the ruching. Then cut a muslin with a proportional increase for the shell. (I sure wouldn't assume I would get it right the first time). Baste it together and go from there.

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
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Oregon USA
Member since 8/24/02
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Date: 10/2/12 1:37 AM

Make the fba on the inside pieces, but don't rotate the dart if there are no gathers. If your fba isn't too large you might be able to adjust the gathers on the outside fabric to correspond to the lining fabric. You can overlay the bodice tissue on the adjusted lining and check. If there's not enough fabric you might be able to add a little length or you might have to make a fba, rotate the dart into gathters and adjust the fullness so it's flattering.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

j Renee Design
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j Renee Design
Intermediate
Wisconsin USA
Member since 7/26/10
Posts: 671
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Date: 10/5/12 4:48 PM

OK, thanks for the pointers, ladies! We'll see how this goes...

------
Jess
Sewing, Knitting, Living: http://www.sometimessewist.wordpress.com

2013 - Bought: 181, Used: 96, Stashed: 85
2014 - Carryover: 85, Bought: 76 1/8, Used: 85 3/4, Stashed: 76 3/8

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