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Forum > Fitting Woes > What's causing this wrinkle/extra fullness? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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What's causing this wrinkle/extra fullness?
VolcanoMouse
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Date: 10/3/12 1:00 AM

Hello! I'm working on the bodice block from Jack Handford's Professional Patternmaking for Designers. I think it's going pretty well (though I'm perhaps not experienced enough to know what's good and what's bad!).

My major woe right now is how I seem to have some extra fullness above my bust on one side. I'm a bit puzzled on what's causing it.

The extra fullness is radiating up from the bust and pointing towards the armscye/shoulder. It doesn't seem to happen on the other side.

Here's a link to a picture of what's happening:

The Problematic Wrinkle-- a Picture

Working off the hypothesis that this is forming because that shoulder is lower than the other, we tried pushing the fullness up and out at the shoulder seam. That didn't solve it.

I do seem to have a rounded upper back: we took darts out at the back neckline to correct it gaping. I'm wondering if this means I have a correspondingly hollow chest (though only on one side?). I do have the typical computer-user's terrible posture-- pushing my shoulders back and standing up magnificently straight causes this wrinkle to vanish.

So! Can you diagnose this problem? See anything also glaringly horrible with my muslin? I would love any help. Thank you so much.
-- Edited on 10/3/12 1:02 AM --
-- Edited on 10/3/12 1:05 AM --

sewme47
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Subject: Whats causing this wrinkle/extra fullness? Date: 10/3/12 6:59 AM

Your waist darts appear to be much too long. They should point to the apex but end 1 or 2 inches below the apex. That could be the problem.

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ryan's mom
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Subject: Whats causing this wrinkle/extra fullness? Date: 10/3/12 7:00 AM

I've dealt with a similar problem. One wrinkle radiating up to the shoulder from the bust.

I do have uneven shoulders. However, the big problem was that one side of my upper back was more rounded and fuller than the other side. I reduced the seam allowance on (only one of the back shoulder edges...the side which had the wrinkle) from 5/8" to 3/8" at the shoulder point tapering to the normal 5/8" seam allowance at the neck. The premise is that the back steals from the front to gain the extra length, thus creating a pull from the bust to the shoulder on the front. After that, I might have to tweak an entire shoulder seam to accommodate for one shoulder being higher/lower than the other.

Problems on the back do show up on the front as wrinkles. In my case, there was only one wrinkle just like yours. Doing a 1/4" gingham muslin on a fitting shell is very helpful to diagnose if there are problems in the back and shoulder areas.

I would have never figured this out on my own. I had the help of the late, great fitting guru Shannon Gifford. I took her Bodice Muslin class twice is was that good.

ETA, on my fuller, upper back side, I also had to to a broad, upper back alteration for a 1/4". This made the shoulder dart deeper to account for the more rounded shoulder blade/shoulder. Length and width was needed to correct my issue. And, btw, I don't make these correction in a stretchy knit fabric because knits are forgiving.
-- Edited on 10/3/12 7:06 AM --

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simplystitches
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Date: 10/3/12 11:38 AM

Your darts are too long. They should end at least 1" below the bust. Because they are so long they are releasing the fullness meant for the bust above it not at the bust line. From the pic it looks like it needs to be shortened by close to 2", maybe more.

Why one side and not both? Without a full front pic it's hard to say. Guesses would be fuller or lower bust on that side or different shoulder slope.

Debbie

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Date: 10/3/12 3:06 PM

I agree with Debbie.
If there is too much width across the chest (it looks like there may be), you could turn your waist dart into a princess seam by extending it too the shoulder line. Otherwise shorten it to end 1" below fullest point of bust.
Good luck.

chgh
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Date: 10/3/12 6:27 PM

I agree with sewme47. You have to determine your bust apex and adjust the pattern accordingly. Clearly the existing darts are off. This might completely solve your problem, the existing width has to be at the right place. The picture shows the garment has the bust width placed to high for your bust (both busts).

If it doesnt seem exactly the same on both sides it simply depends on the fact that hardly a woman has equally large busts on both sides. Just adjust the dart placement and check the result before you alter anything to make it more symmetrical. Usually this is not neccesary.

The distance from the bust apex to the end of the dart should also be placed depending on your cup size. Up to a C-cup you may use a distance of - 3/4 of an inch or so. Larger cup sizes look better with greater distances. I use a distance of 6 cm or more myself because I have a very large cupsize.

/ chgh

Miss Fairchild
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Date: 10/3/12 8:56 PM

I'm thinking about what chgh said. What is your bust tip to bust tip measurement, and what is it on the pattern? (it would show just above the waistline darts. I'm thinking that your problem is the bust is moved over more on the one side and you need to move your dart over more, away from the center, as well as take in the dart about another 1/2". It could be that the upper portion of this part of your bust isn't as full as the other.

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tinflutterby
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Subject: Whats causing this wrinkle/extra fullness? Date: 10/4/12 0:37 AM

I'm finding Ryan's Mom convincing with what you already said about your back although I never would have thought of it. It's certainly an easier adjustment and easy to test to. Just rip the seam.

taylormade
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In reply to sewme47 <<


Date: 10/4/12 10:06 AM

I agree with the previous response. Also, I would suggest you measure your shoulder lengths and see if you are noticeably different sizes from one side to another.
I have the "caved in front chest" from poor posture and arthritis, so there are times when my sewing teacher marks a new armscythe to accommodate for that.

VolcanoMouse
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Subject: Fitting a bodice block-- armscye wrinkles and dart height Date: 10/10/12 11:29 AM

Hhhm. Thank you, everyone, for your responses! I've been trying to correct this, and I would greatly appreciate it if anyone could tell me if my alterations improved things (or made them worse!).

Here are some updated photos of my "progress." All of the photos have notes highlighting what's going wrong where.

A front view
A three-quarters view
A back view

I started out with the suggestion that the darts were simply too long. Here, they've been shortened by 1.5". I've also sewn them on a slight curve, instead of on a straight line (a random online tip that perhaps I shouldn't've followed.) I'm still getting a slight 'bubble' at the tip-- do they need to be shortened even more to correct that out? I know that bubble is trouble, but is it from poor sewing/pressing or a patterning issue?

My armscyes are also misbehaving now. I seem to be getting some wrinkles radiating from them (best shown in this picture). I can pinch them out into a dart that points quite nicely to my bust point, but I'm not sure if I'm allowed to do that! I've read a couple places that some larger-busted ladies tend to have difficulty fitting slopers using only one waist dart-- is it possible that I need to take an extra dart myself? I'm only a C cup, if that matters.

I thought the back was working well, but this back view shows a wrinkle or two I wasn't aware of, namely that strange fold at the armscye and the loose wrinkle crossing the center back. The shoulders look a bit of a mess, but I think that's just from a dart that's coming unstitched up there.

I would be so grateful for any feedback anyone has. I really want to get this block right, but (as you can tell!) I'm pretty ignorant of the "whys" and "hows" of fitting. Any suggestion you have will help me learn! Thank you all again.
-- Edited on 10/10/12 11:30 AM --

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