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Underline wool crepe
Which underlining is best?
Yu Kikuyu
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Yu Kikuyu
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Subject: Pima cotton vs China silk to underlining wool crepe Date: 10/3/12 11:19 AM

Hi everyone,
I'm making a wool crepe sheath dress and want to underline it mainly to eliminate any seam allowance show-through.
From what I've read, I'm thinking about using either Pimatex cotton (3.7 oz per square yard, Thread count is 133 threads per inch x 72 threads per inch) or habotai silk (5mm or 8 mm).
Is any of those better? Does the weight of the silk is really important?

Just in case it helps you answering, here a some details:
- I have a lot of style lines in it with curves and sharp angles.
- I will most likely line it with a 8mm silk habotai.
- The wool crepe is a medium weight (it was light/medium before I preshrunk it a tad bit too long in the drier shame on me )

Oh, and since my next piece are pants, maybe some of you know if a silk habotai 8mm would be good enough to line (wonderful Italian, Zegna) wool pants!

Thank you so much for helping a doubtful fashion design student working with wool for the 1st time!
-- Edited on 10/3/12 12:51 PM --

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to Yu Kikuyu <<


Date: 10/4/12 2:45 PM

First you underline with fabric that best mimics the drape of the outer fabric. Cotton batiste or silk habotai, or silk crepe de chine can be used with wool crepe. I would use the batiste or the crepe de chine. I find the silk habotai too light. I also wouldn't line with it. Again, it's too light weight and fragile. I'd line it with silk crepe de chine. As for pants I'd never line them with habotai or china silk as it is also known. It is just not sturdy enough for the wear and tear of a pair of pants. I'd use silk crepe de chine or Bemberg rayon.
Wool crepe shrinks a lot and is very easy to felt. I don't know if you used the wet towel and dryer method or if you washed it and dried it. Washing wool crepe is not something I'd do unless I wanted to felt it!
-- Edited on 10/4/12 3:39 PM --

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dresscode

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Date: 10/4/12 3:57 PM

I think crepe de Chine would be a nice underlining. Stays soft but makes a "richer" combination.

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