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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Lengthening a wrap top....help needed ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Lengthening a wrap top....help needed
Vellela
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Vellela  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/6/12 2:03 AM

Hello everyone - I am looking for some help in altering a pattern.

I have a standard adjustment of lengthening the waist by 3-4 cms. I making wrap dress with a waist seam in it and am wanting to do my standard adjustment. I have always been told when lengthening to do keep the grain line aligned however when I do it distorts the pattern completely. Below is a pic - look at the side seam??

Pic of Pattern alteration

Any suggestions???

Many thanks

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Paula - Melbourne, Australia

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Marie367
Marie367  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/6/12 8:47 AM

I have always needed to add length to a bodice too. My shoulder to bust length is ok; I need the length in my mid torso to waist. Adding length the way you did is ok if that is where you need the length but keep in mind you have added width too. Your side seam tells you how much extra you have added and unless you need that extra at the waist you will have to take in extra in the pleats etc. That might make too much ease at the waist. I think your grainline is ok the way you have drawn it. I have often just added extra to the bottom seam line. If you did that, you would keep your side seam the same and just draw the extra by following the lines of the bottom seam of the pattern. You will still end up with some extra width. I don't have much luck fitting crossovers and I think that it is because of needing the extra length and trying to figure out what to do with the extra material that adds to the waist-they tend to bag at the waist and I think you will have the same issue. Making bigger pleats or more gathers does not fix the problem unless you need the extra at the waist. I will be anxious to see what others might say-you have to do something with the extra width but I don't have a suggestion that works.

unfinishedprojects
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Date: 10/6/12 11:33 AM

You can extend the length by using the Center Front line instead of the grain line since it's not on the vertical. You will have to redraw the new neckline.

If you are full busted and like the extra width and coverage that your alteration added, then just make cuts up the center of the two pleats. Move the side seam back to the side and divide the extra width between the two pleats.

Vellela
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Date: 10/6/12 6:59 PM

Thanks ladies - i have always had a bit of trouble fitting wrap tops - seems i am not alone.

I will have a play around today whilst my darling fella watches the motor racing and see what i can come up with.

I did try increasing on centre front and that didnt appear to give as much extra width so that might work.

Thanks heaps

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Paula - Melbourne, Australia

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LauraTS
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Date: 10/7/12 2:39 PM

I agree that you need to lengthen perpendicular to the CF axis, not the grainline axis. It looks like the pattern is drafted so that the grainline follows the angled wrap neckline, but if you think about it the length that you need is relative to the up/down of your body, not the neckline, which will be angled on your body.

Lengthening wrap tops are a pain - especially when the two sides aren't identical.

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Fruzzle

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Date: 10/8/12 3:01 PM

I agree that you need to use CF and not the grainline. Is this a bias cut dress? If it's not supposed to be, I would use the CF line as the grainline--I'm very suspicious that the grainline as printed is a mistake.

You can then align the dress at the side seams and adjust the line of the wrapover piece to smooth it out.

GoSewGirl
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In reply to Fruzzle <<
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Date: 10/8/12 3:21 PM

I have to lengthen above the waistline in nearly every pattern I make.

For a wrapover like this, do not shift the lower portion over, but move it straight down (in a line parallel with the CF line) keeping the CF lined matched up from the upper part to the lower part.

The grainline will stay the same - the lines won't match but they will be at the same angle; I'm assuming it's 45.

(I assume you aren't trying to add width.)

Then I would true the angle of the wrap from top to bottom and true up the side seams. You will need to do this on any facings as well. Be sure to match them up so that the facings match the front and you should be good to go!

------
Liz

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