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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Shawl collar question ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Shawl collar question
I never get it right...
AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/6/12 7:02 PM

I am struggling with a vest that has a shawl collar. When I get to the point where you are suppos to piviot I end up with something that looks like gathers or a tiny pleat.
Anybody have a good tip on sewing this?

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Ada

PattyE
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PattyE  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/6/12 8:04 PM

What pattern are you working on?

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Stash: 174.845 yds. @ 12.20.14

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh
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Date: 10/7/12 10:01 AM

Ada, I agree, this is a very tricky spot. I have a TNT shawl collar dress, and this part always makes me nervous. I always baste the seam first, check for puckers from the right side, then stitch. Even then I sometimes rip out the first try.

Have you stabilized the seamline? I find that if I use strips of lightweight fusible interfacing (or, in my case, knit tape, as it's a pattern for knits) along the whole seamline, and especially at the pivot point (make sure there is no break in the stabilizer there, and that it extends 1/2 an inch or so in all directions around the pivot point) this is a big help.

Since my knit tape is very lightweight, I can stabilize both the upper collar and undercollar pieces without really adding bulk.

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marjoriekh

marec
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Date: 10/7/12 11:28 AM

Maybe this will help: I pinned it awhile back because this is hard for me also

shawl collar

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my blog: http://kf-biblioblog.blogspot.com/
The more I learn, the less I know.

AdaH
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Date: 10/7/12 12:13 PM

I am making myself finish UFO's so V8777 was next in line.


I did interface the edges, both pieces. I did mark the intersection where you turn the corner. I basted. I still have a messy corner.

Pictures to follow.

The fabric is pleather (sp).
Should I just call it a wadder and move on to the next UFO or should I take it apart and try again? Maybe with more interfacing?


-- Edited on 10/7/12 12:34 PM --
ps I already clipped the corner. Why did I do that when I knew it was a mess?
I might be more of an optimist than I think I am
-- Edited on 10/7/12 12:37 PM --

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Ada

PattyE
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Date: 10/7/12 3:02 PM

I have found that when I raise the presser foot to pivot, I usually need to make sure I push any excess fabric to the back before I lower the presser foot and continue sewing. It will eliminate ending up with a pleat or tuck at the point. I know that probably sounds clear as mud but I'm not sure how else to explain it.
Do you think your pleather is feeding uniformly? Or could it have gotten a little stretched in that area?

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Stash: 174.845 yds. @ 12.20.14

mastdenman
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Date: 10/7/12 4:19 PM

First I mark my seam allowances on both pieces with chalk for something similar that can be easily removed.

Stay stitch around the corner and clip within a couple of threads of the corner.
Pin the corners together.
When you sew up to the corner, stop with the needle down.
Lift the presser foot.
Rotate the fabric around to the other direction.
This will involve making a pleat in the piece with the right turn on the inside. Put the excess fabric out of the way.
Put the presser foot down and continue sewing.

When you pull it apart and press, the fabric should be flat.

The reason I mark the seam allowances is because I have difficulty keeping track of exactly where the corners are and where I should be turning.
-- Edited on 10/7/12 4:22 PM --

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Marilyn

January 2009 to January 2010 81 yards out and 71yards in January 2010 to the present 106.7 yards out and 146.5 yards in. January 2011 to the present: 47 yards out and 69 yards in.

Jane S
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Jane S
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Date: 10/7/12 6:59 PM

I'm going on a vague memory to explain this. Susan Khalje had us stay stitch not just the right angle of this corner but actually stitch past the angle in both directions. That way you could clip into that corner and really treat each edge as part of the joining seam. (Even I can hardly understand what I'm trying to describe, sorry.)
Personally, this is an area where I frequently hand stitch for an inch on either side. I like the control of a hand needle and lining up those edges perfectly. Then I machne sew the rest of both seams up to the handstitching. A small back sticth will not come undone and the collar area is neater and flatter that way.

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www.luckysewandsew.blogspot.com

marjoriekh
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marjoriekh
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In reply to Jane S <<


Date: 10/8/12 10:16 AM

I like this idea of hand-stitching, which, amazingly, hadn't occurred to me. I'm trying that next time. Thanks!

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marjoriekh

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/9/12 7:16 PM

I ended up doing the hand stitching. It worked really well.

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Ada

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