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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Gaping Sweetheart Neckline

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Gaping Sweetheart Neckline
Not at the center front
sugarduck
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sugarduck
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Date: 10/8/12 6:32 AM

I've completed the muslin for a dress with a sweetheart neckline and the bodice looks great EXCEPT there's some gaping in the "heart" part of the neckline - the part that curves upward to form the sweetheart shape, on the same vertical axis as the bust point. I can pinch out about 5/8" on both sides. I can't pinch fabric out of the center front because it lays flat. Shoulders, armholes, bust - everything else fits perfectly, so I don't think the gaping is an effect of a fitting problem elsewhere.

I don't want to put a dart on the neckline. Is it possible to just pinch that fabric out in the spot where it gapes and remove it from my pattern piece without affecting the fit for the rest of the bodice? Everything else fits so well, I'm afraid to make any sort of major change to the pattern piece. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
-- Edited on 10/8/12 6:34 AM --
stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue  Friend of PR
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In reply to sugarduck

Date: 10/8/12 7:56 AM

Quote: sugarduck
Is it possible to just pinch that fabric out in the spot where it gapes and remove it from my pattern piece without affecting the fit for the rest of the bodice?

Probably, yes! It will change the outside angle of the edge you're darting, though, so you may need to tweak that to keep the right heart shape. I routinely do this when I have neckline or armscye gaping, and I find that--especially in the armscye--it tends to make the armscye shaped like an L instead of a J, but it's not noticeable on the garment when worn. It *may* be noticeable on a sweetheart neckline, so you'll want to be sure to true up the curve.

Good luck!

------
~Gem in the prairie

JEF
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JEF  Friend of PR
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In reply to sugarduck

Date: 10/8/12 9:43 AM

Peggy Sagers just talked about this in a recent webcast. It's the one on All About Tops and she starts around minute 16:30 on that topic but I think the part you want is at about 25:00.

Silhouette Patterns webcast

HTH,

JEF

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"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

unfinishedprojects
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unfinishedprojects  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/8/12 9:46 AM

Ease the extra fabric into a neckline stay. You can see an example here.
sugarduck
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sugarduck
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In reply to JEF

Date: 10/8/12 10:59 AM

Quote: JEF
Peggy Sagers just talked about this in a recent webcast. It's the one on All About Tops and she starts around minute 16:30 on that topic but I think the part you want is at about 25:00.
Silhouette Patterns webcast

This was extremely helpful. Thank you so much for the link.

And thanks to everyone for the tips and ideas!
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