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Underlining and/or interfacing
Should I do both or just one? Which order?
cosmoe
cosmoe
Member since 2/1/09
Posts: 12
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Date: 10/9/12 9:32 AM

I am planning to make Colette Patterns Anise jacket using a wool flannel (one of the suggested fabrics). The pattern instructs you to underline the shell pieces of the jacket with muslin, probably to add body to a light weight fabric. I've made jackets in the past using traditional tailoring techniques, but I was hoping to use interfacing this time and do some "speed tailoring." I was planning to follow the Threads article on Armani jackets:
Threads

So, this is my question: If I am going to underline the jacket with muslin, should I apply the interfacing to the fashion fabric first (for example, along the hem), or should I underline and then interface? Or, should I just block fuse all of the shell pieces with interfacing instead of underlining?

rmusic1
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rmusic1
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 7/3/10
Posts: 1105
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 10/9/12 12:51 PM

please dont think me an expert, as I have only interlined something once. But it is recent experience! I made a jacket where the fashion fabric didnt have enough body by itself, so I added a wool tweed interlining.

I found the following worked best: interlined front, interfaced interlining. Ditched fashion fabric facing (too much bulk) and swapped it for lining instead. Do consider if you jacket sleeves and shoulders are not structured enough about whether shoulder pads and sleeve heads might be worth investing in.

Having said all that, it's trial an error. I would layer your front section pieces together to see how it drapes before making a final decision and fusing the interfacing.

Oh, one last tip, I found the area round my bust near my underarm a bit lacking in definition (a slight hollow) if you get this try adding batting by cutting out the side panel pattern piece to get the right shape. You will need to trim the seam allowance of the batting after catch stitching in place to prevent even more bulk.

Inter lining is worth it but is a lot of work......

couturemom
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couturemom
North Carolina USA
Member since 7/19/11
Posts: 115
Skill: Expert/Couture
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Date: 10/10/12 1:11 PM

One thing to consider (and I don't have an answer) is whether interfacing the fashion fabric serves to make the jacket hang better (e.g., hem interfacing), and if interfacing the underlining instead works as well.

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