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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Trying a muslin for the first time - Can you help me identify the problems please ? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Trying a muslin for the first time - Can you help me identify the problems please ?
Raglan T-shirt for a woven fabric.
HOWsMom
HOWsMom
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Date: 10/9/12 12:08 PM

This is the pattern I'm using.

As I'm a very large woman, I cut the XL size.
The envelope states that the size is for Bust size 42-44", my bust is 44".

I am using muslin fabric, which I know is stiffer than whatever fabric I use in the end (probably flannel, but possibly some thicker broadcloth as well, for a "scrub" type top which I love for camping!).

So - I have NEVER done this before, and I'm not exactly sure what all I'm looking for.

I know the shirt has to have a loose fit, as it's meant for a woven fabric and will have little to no give / stretch.

But this seems huge so far - here are the photos I took of my poor self :(







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My daughter and I are participating in this year's CIBC "Run for the Cure" - see my link here
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AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/9/12 12:25 PM

The pattern is to big for you all over except for the bust circumference . You need to select your size by your upper chest measurement not your bust measurement.
You can see from your balance line at the waist, side view, that the top is pitching up, so you need more length in the front.
-- Edited on 10/9/12 12:27 PM --
to delete the FBA information. There are however big diagional lines from the bust to the waist on each side.
-- Edited on 10/9/12 7:23 PM --

------
Ada

HOWsMom
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Date: 10/9/12 12:29 PM

I would never have expected a full-bust adjustment when I barely barely fill out a B-cup !! Yikes :D

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My daughter and I are participating in this year's CIBC "Run for the Cure" - see my link here
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LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/9/12 12:50 PM

I can't tell from the pics whether you need an FBA, but the whole thing is definitely too big (even for a scrub top). The Big 4 are notorious for too much ease especially in the simpler patterns. I would try one size down and see how it looks, before you try more complicated alterations.

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simplystitches
simplystitches
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Date: 10/9/12 12:57 PM

It's definately too big. Make a new one based on your high bust measurement and then post new pics.

I'm not comvinced you need a fba. I'm just barely a b myself and have never had to do an fba. I think it's the stiffness of the muslin that's making the front line appear to be pulling up and even possibly just the way your arms are positioned. Maybe try a softer muslin fabric or wash some of the muslin to soften it up a bit.

Debbie

marymary86
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Date: 10/9/12 1:12 PM

Couldn't the front be hiking up over a protruding tummy? (I know that one cause I have it too)...

And you aren't that big - the pattern is too big and the light colored muslin makes it seem worse.

You are going to be delighted when you get your muslin to fit!

------
Mary


HOWsMom
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Date: 10/9/12 1:18 PM

Yes, the tummy protrudes.
Roughly to the 5-months pregnant look, if not more.

------
My daughter and I are participating in this year's CIBC "Run for the Cure" - see my link here
http://www.runforthecure.com/goto/RememberingAudrey

marymary86
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In reply to HOWsMom <<


Date: 10/9/12 1:25 PM

Me too!

But when your clothes fit right, you look slimmer.

You're going to love it!

------
Mary


Marilly
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In reply to HOWsMom <<


Date: 10/9/12 6:41 PM

I agree with the rest about the shoulders being a bit too wide, but there is one or two things to consider along with the FBA.
The FBA will help in your case to add depth to a widening body below the shoulders, so it's not just about cup size The FBA will help some, but the very first thing that must be fixed is how this is riding on your shoulders. It will affect everything and I suspect a lot of that diagonal drag line and collapsing of fabric in the front armscye is because your shoulder line is more sloped that the pattern.
Another possible issue is a rounded upper back..the way the entire lower back with exception of the back armscyes is standing away from your body might be due to the back hiking up because it needs more length. Another clue is how your horizontal line is tipping up in the back in your side view pic. When more fabric gets added then the upper back will drop down in place and it'd level out. Does this kind of drag line happen with all your tops?
I don't see any catching on your tummy right now so might wait on dealing with that.
For the record I think the horizontal line across the garment is a fabulous idea. As a user of pattern software, part of the process is to mark horizontal lines at the bust, waist and hip and sometimes if it applies, the bicep of the sleeve too. I guess the new fitting book by Sarah also recommends this too.
Anyway, my two cents and yeah, I'm in the permanently pregnant shape with a B cup catagory too. I use a C cup in my software to give a little more side dart uptake for body depth.
Also take your time, raglan sleeves are a little trickier to alter than set in sleeves and there's always going to be some armscye wrinkling with woven fabric...heck, even the models have them. ; )
Shel

HOWsMom
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Date: 10/10/12 10:29 AM

Alright - so I tore it apart, and redrew it as a size Large.
Marked my new sewing lines and basted it back together.

I did NOT cut it though.

I have no made any other modifications or alterations yet.

I'm not liking the Large fit, honestly. In some spots it's better than the X-Large was, but it's too tight in the biceps, and across the stomach for me.





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My daughter and I are participating in this year's CIBC "Run for the Cure" - see my link here
http://www.runforthecure.com/goto/RememberingAudrey

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