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Forum > Fitting Woes > Extra underarm fabric ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Extra underarm fabric
What fit issue is this?
Ann V

Ann V
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 9/7/07
Posts: 77
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Date: 10/9/12 11:01 PM

In both RTW jackets and in jackets I've tried to make, I always have extra armpit fabric. It's like the shoulder fits pretty well, but the armpit is too far away from my body and there's extra fabric there. I have no idea what's causing this issue (is it shoulders? bust?) or what alteration to make that would fix it.

RTW:


Jacket I made (it has other fit issues, too)


Any ideas how to fix this?
-- Edited on 10/9/12 11:14 PM --

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http://www.annsprojects.com/

Rhoda K
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Rhoda K  Friend of PR
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Alabama USA
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In reply to Ann V <<


Date: 10/9/12 11:07 PM

Links to your photos aren't working.

Ann V

Ann V
Intermediate
Minnesota USA
Member since 9/7/07
Posts: 77
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In reply to Rhoda K <<


Date: 10/9/12 11:15 PM

Strange! Can you see them now?

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http://www.annsprojects.com/

sewbluetiful
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sewbluetiful
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Missouri USA
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In reply to Ann V <<


Date: 10/9/12 11:41 PM

It almost looks like you just need to move the whole sleeve in 1/2 in.. in doing this, you will take up the side seam just below the sleeve,, redraw the lower armscye and resew ...

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Marie367
Marie367
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Ohio USA
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Date: 10/10/12 9:53 AM

I often have this issue. I guess my arm sits a bit higher than pattern makers think it does. I raise the armhole about a half inch and narrow the sideseam under arm area by about the same. On a sleeveless top or dress I don't adjust the pattern and fix it after trying it on unless the armhole is way too low which has to be adjusted before cutting. With a sleeve, you have to adjust both the sleeve and the body. Does this make sense? This doesn't mean that you might not have another fit problem in the bust or back area too. HTH

Lindy Ann
Lindy Ann  Friend of PR
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Kansas USA
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Date: 10/10/12 11:01 AM

I've had a similar problem. It started being an issue after I gained some weight and went up a pattern size or two. The problem is most noticeable when I raise my arms.

The solution for me seems to be to go by upper bust measurement and use a smaller pattern size. That way, the shoulder seams are shorter. The whole armhole is a little closer to the center front and center back. I'm short, so I also take out about 3/8 inch in length of the bodice and sleeve between the top and the bottom of the armhole.

Because of the extra weight and bigger circumference, I then need a little extra fabric around my bust and ribcage. I've tried a full bust adjustment, and that works pretty well. But I don't have a very full bust. What works well for me is to add about 1/4 or 3/8 inch to the seam allowances of the sleeves and the bodice front and back, below the armhole. (Move the darts out to the new side seams -- making the bust points a little further apart.) This all has the general effect of making a size 12 in the shoulder, neck, and upper chest, but a size 14 through the bust, sleeves, and lower area.

Good luck!

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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AUSTRALIA
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Date: 10/10/12 5:54 PM

I'd say the problem is that chest width measurement of the pattern you are using is too big (between the armscyes above bust).

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Nancy K
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Nancy K
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New York USA
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In reply to Ann V <<


Date: 10/10/12 10:44 PM

First of all, this is a bad pose for showing fit. When you raise your arms you distort the fit and it makes it hard to see what is wrong.
In the first one, the jacket is not fitted so there is extra ease at the underarm. On your jacket i don't see extra fabric under the arm, but I do see a sleeve that is much too long and what looks like a shoulder that is too wide. I can't see what is going on at the waist area.

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Ann V

Ann V
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Minnesota USA
Member since 9/7/07
Posts: 77
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 10/10/12 11:43 PM

Thanks for everyone's thoughts!

As for the pose, I was trying to show what feels like a batwing of fabric under my arm. It's like the sleeve ends much further out from my body than it should. I'm interested in the idea that the area above the bust is too wide or that the shoulders are too wide.

The jacket Ottobre 2-2006-17 and I started with a 44, which I thought matched my high bust measurement. I did an FBA, but I think that size might have had an FBA built in, because I ended up with a bust that was too large and too low. Also, my top stitching didn't go well on this stretch woven. And, I learned that I'm not a fan of 3 button jackets on me!

Hopefully this photo shows the fit better:

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http://www.annsprojects.com/

Lena Merrin
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Lena Merrin
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AUSTRALIA
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In reply to Ann V <<
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Date: 10/11/12 1:00 AM

So if you pin a tuck vertically from shoulder to the waist, then your shoulder will become shorter, chest narrower and things should improve. Is back too wide too?

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