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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Hints on How to Grade Pattern

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Hints on How to Grade Pattern
Sunshine12242
Sunshine12242
Member since 6/7/11
Posts: 196
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Date: 10/10/12 2:40 PM

Wondering if there are any hints on grading a pattern. I grade mine from waist to hips. I now grade one side seam of the top and then try to trace the same on the back side seam. Is this the best and easiest way to do this?

Thank you

rmusic1
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rmusic1
Advanced Beginner
UNITED KINGDOM
Member since 7/3/10
Posts: 952
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Date: 10/10/12 4:09 PM

my waist is one size bigger than my hips, and two times bigger than my bust. I have to grade every time! how you grade will depend on where you carry the extra "size" (sorry, cant think how else to put it). I tend to carry it more on my front.

This means with some patterns just going up to the required size from under arm (or in your case waist) for front and back works. In other cases I have found myself dropping the back down a size as it was just too roomy. Patterns vary, what works for one wont for another.

This probably is not sounding very encouraging. Personally, I would start off with adding to front and back, and you can always cut back to a lower size later on (unless the pattern pieces make this tricky). My latest dress, despite my carefully checking the ease printed on the pattern pieces, turned out a bit too small because I dropped the waist back piece to a size 14. I was lucky to get away with it due to the dress design.

Guess what I will be sticking to next time, my good old size 16....anyway, best of luck.

kkkkaty
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kkkkaty  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Utah USA
Member since 12/7/05
Posts: 2633
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In reply to rmusic1 <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 10/10/12 4:36 PM

I was recently introduced to Peggy Sager's (Sayer? I think it's Sager) videos on her website, and they are great! archived webcasts Feb 7 2011 was on French Curves, and has great tips on how to use them to grade patterns. If you don't have a FC, get one at Joann's when their notions are on sale, or with a coupon. I graded a dress last weekend, and was able to match the curve perfectly, now that I know what the numbers mean ;)

------
Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

kkkkaty
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kkkkaty  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Utah USA
Member since 12/7/05
Posts: 2633
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In reply to kkkkaty <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 10/10/12 4:49 PM

also the april 25th 2011 segment has good fitting tips with a fc.

------
Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

Sunshine12242
Sunshine12242
Member since 6/7/11
Posts: 196
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In reply to kkkkaty <<


Date: 10/11/12 9:29 AM

Thank all of you for the grading help. Gone were the days when I was the same measurements as the pattern size. I will look at the videocasts as a visual explanation helps me alot and maybe I'll find out how to use my french curve.

kkkkaty
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kkkkaty  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Utah USA
Member since 12/7/05
Posts: 2633
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In reply to Sunshine12242 <<


Date: 10/11/12 10:24 AM

I was really startled by how much I took to the videocasts. I have several books on fitting, and rarely use them; maybe I have learned that I am more of a visual learner....

------
Viking Lily 545
Viking Ruby
Bernina Activa 210
Brother 1034d

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