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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Bulky hem on corduroy coat! ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Bulky hem on corduroy coat!
MissVintageGirl
MissVintageGirl
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Date: 10/12/12 11:29 AM

*Not sure if this is the right place to post this, but it seemed like the most appropriate!*

I'm making my first coat. It has come along very easily so far, but now that I'm almost done I've hit a snag.

I'm using Simplicity 2508: corduroy on the outside, a lining of printed cotton, and an interlining of Thermolam Plus (I sewed the interlining to the lining).

The pattern instructions say to bag the hem. You know- stitch the outside and the lining together with a .5" seam. Then turn it inside out, press up the hem, and let the lining drop. {Here are the instructions: 62. Turn garment and lining right side out through opening on lower edge. Press, pressing up hem. Slip hand through opening on lower edge of garment and tack hem to garment at seams. Slip sleeves into place. Press under 1/2" (1.3cm) on remaining lower edge of lining. Slip-stitch pressed edge of lining 1" (2.5cm) above lower edge of garment. Allow lining to drop. Slip-stitch front facing to hem and remaining front edge of lining to facing.}

Well, my lining doesn't exactly drop, because it's very bulky (because of the interlining). And in some spots where it does drop, it hangs below the hem of the corduroy.

I tried catchstitching up the corduroy hem and then slipstitching the entire lining to the hem. But now the hem looks awful- it's bulky and pointy and I can see the folded interlining outline all the way around (I know that corduroy doesn't exactly drape, anyway, but this looks bad).

I have no idea how to fix it- Google has turned up nothing. I don't know whether to rip out all of my hand sewing and make the hem a little longer or just try to hem it in a completely different way. Please help! :)

Nancy K
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In reply to MissVintageGirl <<
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Date: 10/12/12 12:39 PM

The interlining should stop at the hem line, not be turned up in the hem. To keep it in place you can catch stitch it at the hemline. You can take out the hem and make the adjustments. If it is hanging below your hem you can trim it at the same time. But, is the hem of the coat hemmed or just folded up? Because that can cause the issue if it's not hanging right. The hem of the lining should be 5/8" longer than the hemline of the coat.
Is it clear that I mean that you have to trim the interling out of the hem area?
-- Edited on 10/12/12 12:40 PM --

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MissVintageGirl
MissVintageGirl
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Date: 10/12/12 12:54 PM

Just after I wrote that first post, I came across something that said to trim the interlining away at the hem line. Of all the reading about interlinings I've been doing lately, that's the first time I ever read that! Makes a lot of sense. =) Thanks, yes, that's clear.

Well, the instructions said to press up the hem and then tack it at the seams, but I catch-stitched it all the way across. Then when I let the lining drop it was hanging down below the corduroy hem in spots. Maybe it had something do to with the bulky interlining?

There is this one little part I don't understand: Could you explain what you mean by the lining hem should be 5/8 " longer than the coat hemline?

Thanks so much for your reply! I'm so looking forward to finishing this coat. :)

B

B
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Date: 10/12/12 2:49 PM

My interpretation was that she means "shorter" than the outer layer.
I agree that the interlining should be not be there to fold up for the hem.
Don't know if you have looked but Threads has a tutorial for bagging a hem here:
Bag your Jacket lining

Have you done a search for this number pattern in the search box? You may or may not get some clues there by reading about their experiences.

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Janome serger 634D, Brother PC6000, Singer 500A, Kenmore Mini-Ultra, vintage Bernina 600, White Rotary treadle, New Homestead A VS treadle

Tarrbaby
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Date: 10/13/12 9:18 AM

What about throwing out the instructions and doing the two linings separately and using a swing tack to keep them together?

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Dawn T.

Changma
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Changma  Friend of PR
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In reply to Tarrbaby <<


Date: 10/13/12 9:59 AM

What is a swing tack?

Nancy K
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Date: 10/13/12 8:10 PM

If you don't bag the lining in a coat, and they are very often not bagged but sewn separately you need a way to keep the lining in place, hence the swing tack. I am going to say crocheted but it's not done with a hook, of thread attached to the coat lining and the coat towards the bottom of the lining about an inch long. It enables the lining to move but stay down. You need two, one on each side seam. I meant that the lining, if you are bagging it, needs to be longer than the finished hem by 5/8". If it is the same length it will pull up the outer fabric. If you are going to keep the hems separate then you would need the lining to be longer and you can hand hem it to the interlining. If you have a bulky coat i'd hem it separately.

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Changma
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 10/13/12 10:10 PM

Thanks for the info.

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