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Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Sewing a wool dress ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Sewing a wool dress
to line or underline is the question
Laurie Lou
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Laurie Lou  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/16/12 1:27 PM

I am sewing a vintage vogue with a simple collarless high neckline. I am using a medium weight wool. The instructions say to underline all pieces and then there is no lining. The neckline then has facings which are also underlined. This is when I decided this would be just too much bulk at the neckline so I would just use the cut out underlining as a lining sewn separate. Do you recommend using a fusible interfacing on the wool for stability at the neckline. This wool is the weight you might use for a blazer. I've never made a wool dress before so like to know what you would recommend.

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Laurie Lou

Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to Laurie Lou
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Date: 10/16/12 3:01 PM

You can use both or either. If you underline and line you can eliminate the facings. If you underline and are sensitive to wool you will still have exposed seams. If you underline in silk organza and line in a silk crepe de chine or Bemberg rayon there isn't much bulk.

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Laurie Lou
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Date: 10/17/12 9:53 AM

Thanks Nancy!

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Laurie Lou

Doris W. in TN
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Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
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In reply to Laurie Lou
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Date: 10/24/12 1:10 PM

Underlining a medium weight wool might make a dress too stiff or firm, unless it is meant to be coat-like.

What are the fabric suggestions on the pattern envelope? If they suggest a lighter weight fabric, then underlining might be needed. Otherwise, I doubt you really need it. Then there is the issue of the raw edges, and a lining is necessary. That's a lot of layers of fabric.

A fusible interfacing on the wool, for stability at the neckline, would be fine if it is separate neckline facing. I would not fuse it to the neckline area of the bodice due to the risk of seeing the edges on the outside/public side, when pressed.

*If you wish to reduce bulk, however, you could fuse the interfacing to a facing made from a piece of lining and serge/overcast the raw edge. I did that on a lined wool sateen sheath dress I made and it worked beautifully, and kept that neckline seam from getting thick.

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Laurie Lou
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In reply to Doris W. in TN

Date: 10/25/12 1:27 PM

Thanks Doris for your thoughtful answer. I actually did as you said here. I've since made the dress (up to the hemming). I opted to line instead of under lining. The wool had enough body to hold it's own. The style actually could have been coatlike as the style is a 60's A-line and would have worked but you are so right about the bulk in the joining seams. I'd like to do something special with the back zipper area so when I get it completed I will try to take the time to post it. Again. I appreciate your tips here.

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Laurie Lou

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