SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
Fashion Fabrics Club
Fashion Fabrics Club

Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > Sewing a wool dress ( Moderated by MissCelie)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
Sewing a wool dress
to line or underline is the question
Laurie Lou
star
Laurie Lou  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 10/16/05
Posts: 425
Send Message

      



Date: 10/16/12 1:27 PM

I am sewing a vintage vogue with a simple collarless high neckline. I am using a medium weight wool. The instructions say to underline all pieces and then there is no lining. The neckline then has facings which are also underlined. This is when I decided this would be just too much bulk at the neckline so I would just use the cut out underlining as a lining sewn separate. Do you recommend using a fusible interfacing on the wool for stability at the neckline. This wool is the weight you might use for a blazer. I've never made a wool dress before so like to know what you would recommend.

------
Laurie Lou

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
New York USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8253
Send Message

      



In reply to Laurie Lou <<
thumbsup 3 members like this.


Date: 10/16/12 3:01 PM

You can use both or either. If you underline and line you can eliminate the facings. If you underline and are sensitive to wool you will still have exposed seams. If you underline in silk organza and line in a silk crepe de chine or Bemberg rayon there isn't much bulk.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Laurie Lou
star
Laurie Lou  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 10/16/05
Posts: 425
Send Message

      



Date: 10/17/12 9:53 AM

Thanks Nancy!

------
Laurie Lou

Doris W. in TN
star
Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Tennessee USA
Member since 2/9/04
Posts: 7793
Send Message

      



In reply to Laurie Lou <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 10/24/12 1:10 PM

Underlining a medium weight wool might make a dress too stiff or firm, unless it is meant to be coat-like.

What are the fabric suggestions on the pattern envelope? If they suggest a lighter weight fabric, then underlining might be needed. Otherwise, I doubt you really need it. Then there is the issue of the raw edges, and a lining is necessary. That's a lot of layers of fabric.

A fusible interfacing on the wool, for stability at the neckline, would be fine if it is separate neckline facing. I would not fuse it to the neckline area of the bodice due to the risk of seeing the edges on the outside/public side, when pressed.

*If you wish to reduce bulk, however, you could fuse the interfacing to a facing made from a piece of lining and serge/overcast the raw edge. I did that on a lined wool sateen sheath dress I made and it worked beautifully, and kept that neckline seam from getting thick.

Laurie Lou
star
Laurie Lou  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 10/16/05
Posts: 425
Send Message

      



In reply to Doris W. in TN <<


Date: 10/25/12 1:27 PM

Thanks Doris for your thoughtful answer. I actually did as you said here. I've since made the dress (up to the hemming). I opted to line instead of under lining. The wool had enough body to hold it's own. The style actually could have been coatlike as the style is a 60's A-line and would have worked but you are so right about the bulk in the joining seams. I'd like to do something special with the back zipper area so when I get it completed I will try to take the time to post it. Again. I appreciate your tips here.

------
Laurie Lou

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Sewing Techniques and Tips >> Sewing a wool dress

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Fit the Tee to a T
Fit the Tee to a T

Register

Sewing with Slippery & Drapey Fabrics
Sewing with Slippery & Drapey Fabrics

Register

Simplicity SEW U By Wendy

photo
by: House of P...

Review
StyleArc Georgia peplum top

photo
by: Areeldoll

Review
Fit For Art Tabula Rasa Jacket Pattern

Fit For Art Tabula Rasa Jacket Pattern

Buy Now
J Stern Designs The Tee Pattern

J Stern Designs The Tee Pattern

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.