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Forum > Fitting Woes > Muslin Fitting: Thurlow Pants ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Muslin Fitting: Thurlow Pants
Gyount
Gyount
Member since 8/9/12
Posts: 27
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 10/17/12 8:19 PM

I wanted to do the Sewaholic Thurlow Pants sewalong that's gonna be starting up in a couple of weeks, and so I put together a muslin, and um, I am clueless. I guess I don't really know what a good fit looks like.

I measured and cut according to my size, but my feeling is that this size (the 12) is too big. At least, that's what I'd think if I saw this on me in the store. I started with a good 2-2.5 inches of the back adjustable tab thing pinned out (beyond the seam allowance), and it hangs pretty obscenely low--hip bones exposed kinda thing. I hiked it up to where I thought it should fit (sitting like 2" or so below my belly button) and pinned up tighter in the back to keep it there.

Thoughts? Should I go down a size or am I just supposed to take out whatever is necessary in that back part to make it fit?

Here are pics of it with just 2-3" pinned out of the back.





And with even more pinned out of the back.





I would love any direction anyone can give me about what my next step should be. Thanks in advance.

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/18/12 0:11 AM

The hip doesn't look crazy big, but the waist sure does. Do you feel like you have extra room in the hip? If you do I'd go down a size (or two?). If it's pretty decent at the hip, once it's pinned, you could just try a smaller size at the waist and the same at the hip.

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NhiHuynh
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Date: 10/18/12 11:20 AM

Great job so far. I don't think you're that far off.

Definitely the waist is too big. Since this is exactly what a muslin is for, I would measure that excess amount, remove the waist band and take that excess from the darts. Maybe you need to widen the existing one and/or add a second back dart. Do not that it from the center back. If you take that much from center back you'll make that seam angled i.e. biased and it will stretch and wrinkle and look awful.

Once you've made this adjustment, try it on again to check the fit. You do not need the waist band on yet.

Once you're satisfied you also need to remove that same excess from the waist band at the darts. In the same amount and place that you removed the excess. Since this is a muslin you can stitch out the excess or you can recut a waist band.

For future size picking, I would recommend using finished garment sizes to find your pattern size. Also with pants the waist will varying according to where the pattern is suppose to sit. If it's suppose to be at the natural waist it'll usually will be smaller than if it's a hip hugger.

Good luck with the muslin tweaks.

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MNBarb
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Date: 10/18/12 11:23 AM

Since the crotch is the most difficult part to fit, in my opinion, you might want to pin the excess out of the side seams. Or better yet, put the pants on inside-out, have someone do preliminary pinning and then baste. Pins add so many wrinkles.

This pair is too big to start evaluating specific fit issues. Did you choose the size according to waist or hip? Hip usually works best.

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cocosloft
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Date: 10/18/12 11:33 AM

Suggest you ask sewaholic...off hand though, your shorts sure are low in the waist. Could be this pattern does not work for you...

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Gyount
Gyount
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Date: 10/21/12 8:36 AM

Thank you all for the helpful tips. I recut the pieces yesterday in the next size down. My measurements as it turned out were between the 8 and the 10, which is why I went with the 10 (I did not cut a 12 as i originally stated).

Thanks for the tip on not needing the waistband--I was following the sewalong steps at Lladybird and she had marked the waistband as needed. Hopefully this time I'll get something I can fit!

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