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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > gored skirt question

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gored skirt question
blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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Date: 10/19/12 5:18 PM

I have mostly completed my inspired version of this Nanette Lepore Jumper that I posted about here using V8410

I thought about just adding this to the previous discussion, but I was afraid it would not be seen.
I shortened the skirt and just took my pattern and slashed and spread a couple of inches at the bottom edge of the skirt. However, my skirt is not nearly as full as the Nanette Lepore skirt. As was pointed out to me, the Nanette Lepore version is a gored skirt. I really want mine to have the same swish and fullness to it.
This got me to wondering if it is possible to add gores to it now that it is already made. I found this tutorial and it looks promising. If I slit my skirt at various points and added fabric wedges, do you think that would work?
-- Edited on 10/19/12 5:19 PM --

idahodogs
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idahodogs
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Date: 10/19/12 9:38 PM

What you would be adding would be a godet, not a gore, and it would be a great way to add fullness to the bottom of the skirt. Loes Hines has a gored skirts packet which offers various combinations of gores and godets to achieve several looks with only 2 different pattern pieces. Check out some of the reviews and you'll see what can happen

tourist
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tourist  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/19/12 11:24 PM

That is the best tutorial I have found, though I have yet to use it myself. The godet will make your skirt nice and swishy.

------
http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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In reply to idahodogs <<


Date: 10/20/12 9:02 AM

I am so happy to hear this. How wide should I cut the bottoms of the godets? I plan to put 2 on the front and 2 on the back.
-- Edited on 10/20/12 9:03 AM --

tourist
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tourist  Friend of PR
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/20/12 10:14 AM

I'd be willing to bet there is a great mathematical solution to your question (length of skirt, total hemline now, preferred hemline when finished) but you aren't going to get it from me!

Figure out where you want the flare of the skirt to start. I would look at the pattern and see where it starts to flare and go by that. Guesstimate how much more you need at the bottom of the skirt to get the effect you want and divide that by 4. Add some for the seam allowances. Make one godet out of a scrap of a similar weight and drape fabric and baste it in. Try it on and have a look. If you still aren't sure, put in another one. If you don't like it, try a wider or narrower width at the bottom of the godet. Repeat until satisfied and then do it with your good fabric.

Then review the pattern and send us photos!

------
http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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In reply to idahodogs <<


Date: 10/20/12 10:48 AM

Quote: idahodogs
What you would be adding would be a godet, not a gore,

So... veering slightly from Blessed's original question, what's the difference between a gore and a godet? CoteSimple (the website for the tutorial) is a medieval costuming site, and we would definitely call those gores (unless it's under an arm or in the collar, in which case it would be a gusset!). She's demonstrating a tiny version of a full skirt panel, but much smaller gores using the same technique are also used in things like this period jacket, to allow it room to fit over the hips (you can see the gores--she's touching one with the ring finger on her left hand--if you look very, very closely):



But you'd use the same steps, right, to create what I normally think of as a godet, the inserts that give a trumpet skirt its flippy hem:



...So, *is* there a difference?

------
~Gem in the prairie

tourist
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/20/12 11:07 AM

To my brain, a gore is a full length skirt piece, waist to hem, that flares out at some point. A godet it what I would insert into a seam or slit to make the gore have a wider, flippier hem line. So your wrist detail photo would be a godet to me. But I know very little!

------
http://bgballroom.wordpress.com to follow the progress on my next ballgown.

blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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In reply to tourist <<


Date: 10/20/12 11:17 AM

Thanks. I have one more question. Should I cut the slit along the grain or parallel to the side side seams? This skirt already has a flare on it.

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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In reply to blessedtosew <<


Date: 10/20/12 4:10 PM

Quote: blessedtosew
Thanks. I have one more question. Should I cut the slit along the grain or parallel to the side side seams? This skirt already has a flare on it.

I don't know if this answers that directly, but period gored skirts typically alternate, sewing an on-grain edge to a bias edge, to keep the hemline from drooping unevenly (a definite concern with those huge flares of full skirting used in medieval gowns). So you flip your triangles--one edge cut straight, one with an angle--as you go along.

------
~Gem in the prairie

blessedtosew
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blessedtosew
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Date: 10/21/12 1:48 PM

It worked. I put 4 gores on the front and 2 on the back and got the swishiness I want. Thanks so much everyone. As soon as I get all those buttons sewn on I will review it.

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