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Princess seams!
How to sew them and fit them?
jing88lai
jing88lai
Member since 4/21/09
Posts: 11
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Date: 10/19/12 6:33 PM

I'm working on a princess seam (armcyce seam) dress from a pattern I drafted myself (I was taking a beginning patternmaking workshop), so there aren't instructions as to how to sew them. I've just been reading lots of info online. The dress will have a fitted bodice and a pleated skirt.

Got 2 questions off the bat:

1. Do I have to do a stay stitch either the center front panel or side panels if I'm not going to clip/notch the seams? I have a small bust and do not need to clip/notch them. Is a stay stitch still necessary?

2. As the pattern is now, there is a more loose fit under my bust. I would prefer the bodice portion to be more fitted like this (from the waist down, I will have a skirt panel with pleating):


Can I just pinch out the loose fabric from the front side panels if everything else is fitting ok?

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
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West Virginia USA
Member since 11/23/10
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In reply to jing88lai <<
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Date: 10/20/12 1:38 PM

Quote: jing88lai
1. Do I have to do a stay stitch either the center front panel or side panels if I'm not going to clip/notch the seams? I have a small bust and do not need to clip/notch them. Is a stay stitch still necessary?



2. As the pattern is now, there is a more loose fit under my bust. I would prefer the bodice portion to be more fitted ... (from the waist down, I will have a skirt panel with pleating) Can I just pinch out the loose fabric from the front side panels if everything else is fitting ok?


1) depends on the fabric. Is it prone to stretching? The stay-stitching is to make it "stay" while you're sewing. You'll cut that off once you stitch the seams, (unless you catch-stitch) so it's irrelevant to clip/notch decisions.

2) Yes, you can definitely pinch that fabric out. That's the joy of princess seaming.
Nancy K
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Nancy K
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Date: 10/20/12 6:56 PM

I only staystitch the center piece along the area that I'll have to clip, so why not do it since you won't know if you have to clip it until you sew it.
Fit the front on your body to get exactly the fit you want. I'd pin the garment together right sides out so that you can easily adjust the seam. Baste rt sides together and try it on again to check the fit.

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solosmocker
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Date: 10/24/12 11:19 PM

Clipping and notching the seams is not about the size of your bust. It is about getting a concave and a convex curved piece to lie smoothly once pressed properly. It will look very lumpy if it is not notched unless you plan on trimming right up to the stitching line, something I wouldn't recommend in most cases.

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http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

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