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Forum > Fitting Woes > FBA vs just cutting wider at side seams ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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FBA vs just cutting wider at side seams
halleyscomet
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halleyscomet  Friend of PR
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Date: 10/21/12 5:18 PM

Is it possible that you can just cut a front wider eliminating the need to do a full bust adjustment? I'm just tissue fitting a blouse with bust and waist darts and I'm noticing that I can just go up a couple sizes at the side seams instead of doing a fba and it's fitting pretty well. I still need to cut my size 10 for my shoulders though. How do you know if you actually need to do a fba vs just cutting it wider?

Nursebennett
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Date: 10/21/12 5:22 PM

My FBA (from here and various sewing blogs as well as Fast Fit For Real People) adds length to the front, as well as width, but it doesn't change the armhole size. If you just add to the side seams all the way from the armscye down then you make the armhole larger, too.

Annie- oh
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Annie- oh
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Date: 10/21/12 6:57 PM

I am a total klutz at fitting, but, I read yesterday:

If the girls are widely spaced, that is, they don't jut out in front much, you can add to the width.

If they jut only a little to the front, you may need a little extra length, but not a FBA.

I'm trying it, and I am NOT touching the armscye.

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I try all things. I achieve what I can. "Moby Dick"

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halleyscomet
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In reply to Annie- oh <<
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Date: 10/21/12 8:59 PM

I always thought I needed a fba but the last jacket I made I did a fba and I really think it is too big. I bought a bra recently and it is a B cup so I don't think I need to do a fba anymore. As far as making the armhole bigger doing it this way, I have big biceps so the armholes are always too small plus I still cut a size 10 at the shoulders.

goodworks1
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Date: 10/21/12 10:28 PM

Try it. Be sure to use the larger sleeve too.

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AdaH
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Date: 10/22/12 11:52 AM

Annie-oh, where did you read about "if the girls are widely spaced" ?

I really dislike making FBA's. Almost as much as I dislike moving the bust point down 1".

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Date: 10/22/12 12:21 PM

As someone who does an FBA on everything, my take is that the extra work is TOTALLY worth it. For me adding extra at the side seams would definitely NOT work, as it would just end up making the garment fit improperly, and be very unflattering. An FBA adds room right at the front, where the girls actually are, as well as length so that your top/bodice actually reaches to where it is supposed to. Ever buy a RTW top and end up constantly yanking it down? LOL that's why! :)

If it works for you, then great!! I'm guessing if you're not that much bigger than the pattern it might be ok. But if you're a full cup size or more than the pattern, in my experience, it's well worth it to take the time and do it properly :)

Nancy K
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Date: 10/22/12 12:52 PM

How much larger is your full bust measurement than your upper bust? If it's a lot, then you'll create more problems for yourself. If you also need more room in the biceps and you can match the sleeve to it then it's more doable.
I have started doing this in knits, but I would not attempt it in a woven, but I have a DD bust. But, I do add more length at cf to go over my bust. Cutting the side seams wider won't do that. The main issue is getting the armhole to fit properly and then to fit a sleeve to it.
I wouldn't do this from a tissue fitting only, make a muslin.

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halleyscomet
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Date: 10/22/12 12:58 PM

My upper bust is 35 and my full bust is 37.

Lindy Ann
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Date: 10/22/12 1:13 PM

Yes, it can work. It depends on your shape. I have done exactly what you describe and it worked very well. I am a barely-C cup, so I don't need a big adjustment for cup size.

Here's what you need to do:

1. Draw the side seams of both the front and back wider. I add 1/4 to 3/8 inch, so a total increase in circumference of 1 to 1.5 inches.

2. This makes the armhole bigger, with the added amount all at the bottom of the armhole. So then add the same amount to the sleeve seam allowances. (This is fine for me, because I have large bones and often need to add to elbow or wrist circumference, and I have lymphedema in one arm, so the upper arm is enlarged.)

3. Move the bust dart (one in the side seam) outward to the new side edge. Just trace it and then move it to the new side seam. If you only extended the dart legs, you would cause 2 problems. First the bust points may be too close together, and second, the width of the dart at its base would be too large and the front side length would not match the back side length.

4. Check center front length. I don't seem to need any addition here, but if you do, you could add it.

This adjustment seems to address all my fit issues at once. I can get the right shoulder length and chest size, and more space in the sleeve, bust, and midriff.

This method wouldn't work for everyone, certainly not for a very large bust with thin arms.

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