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notched collars YUK!
any easy way to do a notched collar?
avatrx

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Date: 10/23/12 3:50 PM

I've watched the Sager's Webcasts about jackets and collars and she basically makes a collar sandwich. I don't know how else to describe it. She sews the collar together at the sides and top end. She has already sewn together the facings. Then she sandwiches the sewn collar (upper and lower) in between the jacket back and the facings. sews all in one seam from neck edge to neck edge.

It seems logical. The pattern I've been working on has you sewn the collar to the neck edge and then sew the facing on top, but the upper collar section is supposed to remain free while you're sewing on the facing. Can someone explain why they do it that way? Kwik Sew Pattern.

Would there be a good reason why you couldn't apply Peggy Sagers technique to just about any notched collar?

thanks,
-susie

Lena Merrin
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Date: 10/23/12 5:46 PM

Because there are classic ways and improved ways to do the same things :)

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Re Becca
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Date: 10/23/12 6:39 PM

I still struggle with notched collars.

If I am picturing what you are talking about, it puts all of the layers for the seam allowance on one side of the seam which may create a lot of bulk in heavier fabrics. Although I may try that since we don't wear many heavier fabrics here.

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avatrx

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In reply to Lena Merrin <<


Date: 10/23/12 7:06 PM

so would you think I could apply this method to just about any collar?

Here is the video on youtube showing how she does it.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4v4zm1tbRbs

thought I'd mention that Peggy always uses 3/8" seam allowances. She claims it makes it easier?
-- Edited on 10/23/12 7:08 PM --

nancy2001
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Date: 10/23/12 7:25 PM

You can sew a notched jacket collar together using any method you prefer, regardless of what the pattern specifies. If you find one method easier than another, there's no reason you can't use it. As you gain experience, you will probably decide to ignore pattern instructions completely and just rely on your own favorite garment construction techniques.

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avatrx

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In reply to nancy2001 <<


Date: 10/23/12 7:30 PM

one of the reasons I ask this is because I was attempting a Simplicity blazer pattern that had a lining. I got goofed up and called Simplicity and asked them how to make the jacket without the lining. She said it was designed to be made with a lining and she couldn't tell me how to do it unlined. I"m a novice at jackets so I gave up on that one.

Re Becca
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Date: 10/23/12 8:00 PM

Not designed to be made without the lining???!!!
Thats very narrow minded of her!

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avatrx

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In reply to Re Becca <<


Date: 10/23/12 8:15 PM

Not being good at this, I wasn't quite sure what to say, but I guess I was surprised that there wasn't a way to make it without the lining. I thought perhaps once I had a better idea of what I was doing, I could make a lining 'after the fact' and attach it. I've seen articles on bagged lining but don't know how to do that ---yet.

There is no one close by me that does apparel sewing, so I can't even take a class without driving 3 hours to get there.

I took apart the last jacket I was working on and redid the collar by using the 'sandwich' method. So far it looks like it worked. I think there were 2 little puckers under the collar in the back. not sure why, but it looks pretty good for me not knowing what I'm doing.

I need to put in the sleeves. I didn't line this one either, but the lining part is near the end of the guide sheet, so I can probaby figure it out later.

nancy2001
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Date: 10/23/12 8:22 PM

Any jacket can be made with or without a lining.

I think you would have an easier time learning to sew jackets if you went to the library and borrowed the following books (they can also be found used on amazon): Easy Guide to Sewing Jackets (doesn't include collars) by Cecilia Podolak and Jackets for Real People by Palmer/Pletsch. I taught myself to sew jackets using these two books.

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nancy2001
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Date: 10/23/12 8:38 PM

I think sleeves are the hardest part of jacket making. The easiest way to attach sleeves is to use a strip of men's tie interfacing to gather in the fullness before you stitch the sleeve to the armhole. Here's a tutorial that will show you how to do this.

Then after the sleeve is inserted, you should insert a sleeve head to fill out the top of the sleeve and make it look professionally sewn. Here is a tutorial.

And here is a tutorial on bagging a lining.

Once again, I highly recommend that you get hold of the two books recommended above.


-- Edited on 10/23/12 8:40 PM --

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