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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Tight in the upper arm

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Tight in the upper arm
and now that I look at the model, it's tight on her as well!
Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff  Friend of PR
Intermediate
WV USA
Member since 11/23/10
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Date: 10/27/12 5:24 PM

I'm making BurdaStyle 09-2012-135.

The shoulder is entirely wonky in my muslin. The upper sleeves are really tight, no matter how I adjust the sleeve cap. So, my question is....where do I add the fabric? I'm not used to working with these kind of sleeves. Do I add space to the bottom part of the sleeves, in that underarm piece? Or the larger, top piece?
-- Edited on 10/27/12 5:25 PM --

CRUST
CRUST
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Date: 10/27/12 5:34 PM

hard to tell without seeing how it fits on you, but if you're having the same fit issues as the model then it looks like the shoulders don't extend far enough for the sleeve style. that means either extending the shoulders and redrafting the armscye and sleeve cap or redrafting the sleeve cap to a more bulbous shape with a sleeve head under it for support.

Boo97
Boo97
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SC USA
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Date: 10/27/12 6:51 PM

Why not frankenpattern? Use another sleeve pattern that has the fit you like and use it as a replacement or guide.

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff  Friend of PR
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In reply to Boo97 <<


Date: 10/27/12 7:06 PM

Good point!

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff  Friend of PR
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In reply to CRUST <<


Date: 10/27/12 7:09 PM

The shoulders do extend more than far enough, actually. I'm going to have to cut a goodly chunk off the top shoulder seam to actually have the sleeve cap hit at the top of my shoulder and not the arm. I'm going to have to re-draft the sleeve, as well as the sleeve cap. It's not just a tightness across the top of the shoulder, but all the way around. It's simply not a big enough hole for my arm to go through.

Red Dragon
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Red Dragon
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 10/27/12 8:08 PM

Sounds like a full bicep adjustment is in order, just a slash and spread.

------
Tracy, Canberra

Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff  Friend of PR
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In reply to Red Dragon <<


Date: 10/27/12 10:42 PM

Quote: Red Dragon
Sounds like a full bicep adjustment is in order, just a slash and spread.

Right, but do I slash the top sleeve piece or the under-sleeve piece? Or both?
kathi s

kathi s
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thumbsup 2 members like this.
Date: 10/27/12 11:42 PM

There is an article in the recent Threads that offers a different way to do a full bicep adjustment. It doesn't appear to néed an adjustment to the sleeve cap. I need to do a full bicep adjustment on every pattern I make so will try it out as soon as I get some sewing for DH completed.

Baja Susana
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 10/28/12 4:43 AM

Courtney,
I looked closely at the jacket. The sleeve is snug on the model.
You might try laying a TNT bodice over this, retrace the armscye and use a sleeve that fits.
S

------
Baja Susana
www.susansewsdaily.blogspot.com
Sewing on the beach, what could be better?

Red Dragon
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In reply to Courtney Ostaff <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 10/28/12 5:36 AM

According to the Palmer/Pletch book, slash and spread the back sleeve piece and let out the centre seam if you need room on both upper and lower arm.
It is surprising hard to find anything on this for two piece sleeves. This is a handy discussion as I usually need to do a full bicep adjustment but have managed to avoid it on two piece sleeves.

------
Tracy, Canberra

Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

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