SIGNUP - FREE Membership and 1 FREE Sewing Lesson
| FAQ | Login
 

Platinum Sponsor
PatternReview.com
PatternReview.com

Forum > Sewing Techniques and Tips > How to Hem Stretch Knit ( Moderated by MissCelie)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
How to Hem Stretch Knit
Twin Needle or not?
Scheri
star
Scheri  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
Alberta CANADA
Member since 7/13/10
Posts: 360
Send Message

      



Date: 10/29/12 0:21 AM

I have a knit dress I am making for my daughter christmas party.

It is a very soft loose woven knit. I did find this in Threads but woukld like anyone feedback on if they have tried this method. Or if you can suggest a method.

Hem a soft, crushable knit
If you're sewing a soft knit without much body, topstitching the hem, especially with a twin needle, may result in tunneling and rippled edges, since knits stretch more on the crossgrain. My solution is to stabilize the hem with strips of fusible interfacing, which also anchor the hem during stitching. I prefer the results I get with two rows of topstitching rather than twin-needle stitching.

It's easiest to stabilize the hems before assembling the garment. Prepare the hems by pressing them into place (I use an oak-tag template). Cut 1/2-in.-wide strips of soft, all-bias knit fusible interfacing like SofKnit. Sew or serge the right side of a strip to the wrong side of the hem edge (adhesive side is up). After constructing the garment, fold the hem up, fuse it in place, and topstitch from the right side.

-Marcy Tilton of Takilma, OR, teaches at The Sewing Workshop in San Francisco[QUOTE]

------
Scheri Manson
Edmonton, AB CANADA

sewme47
star
sewme47
Intermediate
Illinois USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 738
Send Message

      



Date: 10/29/12 6:30 AM

I have used the method described to hem stable knits, but the results are not "stretchy" enough for softer knits like jersey, in my opinion. My favorite hem for all kinds of knits is a coverstitch!

------
A balanced diet is a cupcake in each hand.

KathySews
star
KathySews  Friend of PR
Advanced
Michigan USA
Member since 10/1/06
Posts: 3967
Send Message

      



Date: 10/29/12 6:37 AM

I have bad luck with twin needles. There is always tunneling on knits. Before I had my coverstitch I basically did what Marci suggested with good results. It takes a little longer but better results.

Since it sounds like a special dress, I suggest doing some tests on scrap fabric to see which you prefer.

cathy45
star
cathy45
Advanced Beginner
Kentucky USA
Member since 7/6/06
Posts: 165
Send Message

      



Date: 10/29/12 10:57 AM

Maybe I'm doing something "wrong" but I always get tunnelling with twin needles on knit. Marci Tilton's method is very similar to Sandra Betzina's who uses Steam a Seam lite to stabilize then stitch.

------
Cathy

"I'm not messy, I'm creative" - Mary Engelbreight

heathergwo
heathergwo  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
California USA
Member since 11/14/11
Posts: 958
Send Message

      



Date: 10/29/12 12:26 PM

Is it a knit that requires a hem?? I made a recent dress and the knit is so tight/soft and has that slight curl to the edge that it doesn't even need a formal hem, just a good, straight cut.

Just a thought???

------
Brother Innovis 1250D
Babylock Enlighten
Singer Curvy 8763
Brother 1034D
Janome 385.19606
Brother 2340CV

Steffie
starstar
Steffie
Intermediate
Michigan USA
Member since 11/6/04
Posts: 895
Send Message

      



In reply to Scheri <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 10/29/12 12:41 PM

I have had issues with tunneling when using a twin needle on loose knits. You may find that stabilizing first will still allow you to use the twin needle and lessen the tunneling. You can also try playing with the tension and stitch length to see if that will help. Using tissue paper as an additional stabilizer to the back of the seam 'may' help. It does help with decorative stitching... I would do this in addition to the seam stabilizer.

I agree with the suggestion to try a few ideas on scraps before you hem the garment.

Doris W. in TN
star
Doris W. in TN  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Tennessee USA
Member since 2/9/04
Posts: 7859
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 10/30/12 10:44 AM

I had tunneling on knits with twin needles. For that reason, I do a straight stitch and run a second line the desired distance away and parallel to the first. I also use a slight ( .5) zigzag. It always looks straight on a knit, and offers some 'give.' A zigzag larger than .5 is possible, and I always test, test, test first on a scrap of the fabric *and* on the same grain orientation. I gently pull and try to stress that stitch, in case it wants to pop or do anything ugly.

ETA - I do not stabilize the hems with a knit fusible interfacing, but I mostly make tee-tops. Marcy T's info might be worth trying, with the loosely woven knit.

My favorite way to hem a knit is to use 1/2" Lite Steam-a-Seam and fuse it in place first. No pinning required, and the S-a-S will stretch very nicely, with good recovery. Again, test first on your own fabric..
-- Edited on 10/30/12 10:45 AM --

bakertoo
star
bakertoo
Intermediate
Washington USA
Member since 12/26/08
Posts: 467
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 10/30/12 12:45 PM

I have used a twin needle to hem knits. I did some practice work on scraps, and that was when I found I had to lengthen the stitch to get it to work. I used the wider twin needle on a thicker knit, but I had to try all the different widths to figure out which one was going to work on my fabric.

I also found a new good use for a couple of the decorative stitches on my machine--the decorative look of the pretty stitch is really fun, and adds a little pop to the top, since it is not a print. I used the decorative stitch on the neck, sleeves and bottom, and its pretty cute.

Courtney Ostaff
Courtney Ostaff
Intermediate
West Virginia USA
Member since 11/23/10
Posts: 664
Send Message

      



Date: 10/30/12 1:41 PM

I used fusible interfacing for the top of a wrap shirt, along with some wooly nylon and a twin needle, and it worked beautifully.

PattyE
starstarstar
PattyE  Friend of PR
Intermediate
Member since 9/7/10
Posts: 1675
Send Message

      
thumbsup 1 member likes this.



Date: 10/30/12 11:23 PM

Hmmm...I hem knits quite often with just my walking foot. What do you guys mean by tunneling?

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview

printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Sewing Techniques and Tips >> How to Hem Stretch Knit

 
adv. search»
pattern | machine | member
        
Leather 101
Leather 101

Register

Restyling with Exposed Zippers
Restyling with Exposed Zippers

Register

Summer Tote

Summer Tote

Buy Now
Pants Fitting DVD

Pants Fitting DVD

Buy Now

Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Shipping Rates | Returns & Refunds | Contact Us | About | New To PR | Advertising

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.