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An Investigation of the Sizing, Grading, and Fit of Commercial Sewing Patterns Interesting Masters thesis
andye   Beginner VA USA Member since 5/9/09 Posts: 1548	Login to reply to this post 5 members like this. Date: 10/31/12 3:50 AM I found this recent thesis which aimed to sort out the size issue once and for all-- testing various patterns against Industry standard size and ease standards, as well as the pattern companies' own stated standards. An Investigation of the Sizing, Grading, and Fit of Commercial Sewing Patterns (spoiler: most of thepattern companies failed miserably at some point or another) It's also got a neat chapter on historical development of patterns, if you don't care for nitpicking about ease and fit. -- Edited on 10/31/12 3:54 AM --
lyndle   Advanced Beginner NEW ZEALAND Member since 3/19/06 Posts: 201	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 10/31/12 4:53 AM Very interesting, thank you for posting. Interesting that for some brands esp Burda, the bust point was lower than the mannequin. IMO this is likely to better reflect a real figure, esp in larger sizes and age 35 plus. I haven't read the part about selecting and verifying the mannequins so this may be discussed there. Meantime, i'll stick with Style Arc and Burda, and keep adding fit insurance on those Burda hips!
blue mooney Intermediate TX USA Member since 12/21/02 Posts: 1740	Login to reply to this post 4 members like this. Date: 10/31/12 10:22 AM Thanks for posting this interesting reading. My take is that for me, New Look might be worth another look. I'm not sure I agree with the researcher's recommendation to classify sizing into straight and curvy. Curves can be distributed anywhere on the body - to say a pattern is sized for a curvy figure really doesn't give enough information. I really do think the apple/pear dichotomy is a better split. ------ --Robyn sewing blog: http://bluemooney.wordpress.com/ illustration blog: http://storybooky.wordpress.com/
Noelle Mac   MA USA Member since 3/16/09 Posts: 55 Public Relations	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 10/31/12 12:05 PM andye Thanks so much for posting this! Really interesting reading. I especially enjoyed reading about the history of patternmaking in the US. It is nice to have this kind of academic discussion of garment sewing among all of our other topics.
Deb Fox Intermediate FL USA Member since 8/26/05 Posts: 1185	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 10/31/12 2:16 PM Reading this interesting document reveals what I have felt all along...the patterns are not standard...grading is inconsistent, ease is inconsistent and printed measurements do not accurately correspond to actual finished measurements...no wonder we have so many problems getting patterns to fit us! ------ Deb: www.thinkingcouture.blogspot.com
Sanibelle   Advanced Beginner GERMANY Member since 5/27/03 Posts: 693	Login to reply to this post In reply to andye << Like this post Date: 10/31/12 3:54 PM Thanks so much for posting this!
Elona   Advanced CA USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 7449	Login to reply to this post In reply to andye << Like this post Date: 10/31/12 5:02 PM Great article--and suspicions confirmed! But congratulations to Burda for apparently having modernized their sizing fairly recently, and for being somewhat closer to 'true' to measurements.
nancy2001   Advanced AL USA Member since 12/3/05 Posts: 6144	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 10/31/12 7:23 PM Very interesting. Thank you for posting this. ------ The essence of life is statistical improbability on a colossal scale. Richard Dawkins
sings2high   Expert/Couture NJ USA Member since 11/25/11 Posts: 158	Login to reply to this post 5 members like this. Date: 10/31/12 8:57 PM The author recommended the pattern companies re-size closer to RTW. I disagree. It is a moving target and will continue to be so. I think it would be sensible to make a complete break with RTW sizing (how can you standardize to something that HAS NO STANDARD?) and instead make it very straight-forward. A 38 inch bust would be a size 38. And if today's women are mostly C-cups, that also should be the stated standard. If a company wishes to supply different cup sizes for a size 38, when looking at the patterns we would see the shoulders getting narrower in inverse proportion to the cup-size getting bigger. Oh, and for sizing pants maybe something REALLY radical, like using hip and inseam measurements, the length of the rise being proportionate to the length of the inseam. It's no wonder men's pants have always fit me better than women's. ------ Measure twice, cut once.
tigergirl   Advanced Beginner AUSTRALIA Member since 11/30/09 Posts: 177	Login to reply to this post In reply to sings2high << Like this post Date: 11/1/12 0:10 AM Quote: sings2high The author recommended the pattern companies re-size closer to RTW. I disagree. It is a moving target and will continue to be so. I think it would be sensible to make a complete break with RTW sizing (how can you standardize to something that HAS NO STANDARD?) and instead make it very straight-forward. A 38 inch bust would be a size 38. And if today's women are mostly C-cups, that also should be the stated standard. If a company wishes to supply different cup sizes for a size 38, when looking at the patterns we would see the shoulders getting narrower in inverse proportion to the cup-size getting bigger. Oh, and for sizing pants maybe something REALLY radical, like using hip and inseam measurements, the length of the rise being proportionate to the length of the inseam. It's no wonder men's pants have always fit me better than women's. Yes, but maybe it should be the upper bust measurement instead of bust measurement to allow for different cup sizes. ------ Brother BM-2600 Janome 693 Lumina Overlocker (Serger) http://tigergirladventures.blogspot.com/

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