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Fitting New Look 6000
Pattern alteration
marleyzhipz
marleyzhipz
Member since 5/20/12
Posts: 7
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Date: 10/31/12 9:07 PM

I'm just learning to alter patterns even though I have sewn for over 40 years. So, per Nancy Zieman, I measure size 12 from armpit to armpit. I had to add 5/8 to each side for bust enlargement and a total of 8 1/2 inches to waist and hips. When I pivoted for the first bust increase, it takes the armhole out to a larger size, defeating the purpose of using size 12 that fits me NOWHERE else. I am not sure if I should just take the width back to the original size 12 and leave the sides increased or possibly a full bust alteration would have been better in that area. I wear a D bra, but I only measure an inch or less from high bust to full bust. The waist and hip alteration worked fine.

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 8/28/08
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Date: 10/31/12 11:27 PM

Don't know how much difference this will make, but aren't you supposed to measure from the crease at upper chest from one side to the other, not armpit to armpit?

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

marleyzhipz
marleyzhipz
Member since 5/20/12
Posts: 7
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In reply to GlButterfly <<


Date: 10/31/12 11:38 PM

yes, you are right. I used the incorrect wording.

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
Intermediate
PA
Member since 5/4/11
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Date: 11/1/12 0:46 AM

Despite the d cup, if you measure less than 1" between full and high bust, are you sure an fba is necessary?

------
Melanie

marleyzhipz
marleyzhipz
Member since 5/20/12
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In reply to meleliza <<


Date: 11/1/12 8:08 AM

I'm not sure what I need. I know I don't need it wider from armscye to armscye, but when I slit my muslin, it pulls apart across the bust about 1/2 in. Frustrated.

VivianZ
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VivianZ  Friend of PR
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LA USA
Member since 12/8/04
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Date: 11/1/12 8:56 AM

I have actually taken a class on this book. When you put the pin in at the shoulder/sleeve seam, and then pivot out the 5/8 inch, the armhole stays exactly the same size, you are only rotating it out which will allow more area in the bust. The arc size of the armhole remains the same.

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height 5'2" bust 36, waist 31, hip 39.
I have way too many yards to count, and I will never use them up, but I will die trying!

marleyzhipz
marleyzhipz
Member since 5/20/12
Posts: 7
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In reply to VivianZ <<


Date: 11/1/12 12:56 PM

Yes, the armhole size stays the same, but my problem is the width from the crease of each arm. I cut out a size 12 and do the pivots and when I put the pattern back to the original size 12, the WIDTH has changed to that of a size 14.

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 3033
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In reply to marleyzhipz <<


Date: 11/1/12 2:49 PM

Now I see what you're saying. I have to increase the back and get the same thing. I need the extra at the "back bust", but swinging out gives me excess at the mid back where I don't need it, so I've decided that I may have to give up on this system and go for another.

The next thing I'm going to try before fully giving up on this system is to move the back armhole inward and pivot from there. Thus the increase will be needed. I don't know---can I fool the pivot-and-slide system? LOL

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

marleyzhipz
marleyzhipz
Member since 5/20/12
Posts: 7
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In reply to GlButterfly <<


Date: 11/1/12 3:55 PM

I noticed in a book today, you can slash vertically and horizontally in the shoulder/armscye area and move than section in to make that high bust area narrower...so, maybe I should use a pattern size according to my high bust measurement and do that adjustment above the bust.

GlButterfly

GlButterfly
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 8/28/08
Posts: 3033
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In reply to marleyzhipz <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 11/1/12 4:29 PM

Try it. I've concluded that if it works, then it's the correct way to do it. LOL

------
That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

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