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Dress form question
how to alter the bust location
avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/1/12 9:51 AM

I recently acquired a Singer Dressform - model 151. It is the only one affordable that has a back waist length long enough for me. 18". But here is my problem,

My measurement from shouder to bust point in 12-3/4". This dress form is approximately 10".

What is the best way to postion the boobs on the dressform to approximate the location of where it should be on me? I did put a bra on it and pull it down to where it was pretty close, but since the full bust is higher, it seems kinda strange..

When you adjust the bust on a dressform, I'm guessing you should adjust to the full bust? The bra I put on it, even though it fits me well, seemed to have to really stretch to go around the under bust part of the dress form.

would I be better off - reducing the dials to approx 40-41 and then padding up to the full bust measurement of me which is closer to 43?

I've never owned a dress form so I'm flyin' blind here.

thanks for any and all suggestions.

ss

AdaH
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AdaH  Friend of PR
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 11/1/12 10:50 AM

I had a similar problem with a Dritz form. My bust needed to move down 1". The form I had didn't have any mechanism to move the bust down so it was worthless to me.
I ended up buying a Uniquely You dress form. It was around $150.
This dress form had the bust to low and I had to chop the bust off and move it up. Just goes to show how different everyone is.

Hope someone else comes along with a solution for your situation.

------
Ada

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 11/1/12 1:01 PM

Quote: avatrx
Would I be better off - reducing the dials to approx 40-41 and then padding up to the full bust measurement of me which is closer to 43?

Yes. Happier all around.

That said, I used the Fabulous Fit Fitting System pads (on a store display form), and to "lower" the bust point I used a combination of putting the bra where it belongs & padding that well AND a couple of shoulder pads to artificially raise the shoulders. You'd think that would throw off fitting the shoulders/back/neck, but it hasn't so far. My measurement is only about 11" from shoulder-to-bust point, however. I don't think I'd recommend padding up the shoulder more than, say, the width/depth of a shoulder pad.

My form also has an ever-so-slightly larger high bust than I do (maybe 1/2"), and I haven't noticed that being a problem, either. And I make a lot of garments with zero ease.

Good luck!

------
~Gem in the prairie

avatrx

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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 11/1/12 6:42 PM

Thanks for the suggestions. I reduced the circumference on the bust and then added a bra. That, to my surprise, seemed to have helped. I did pick up some shoulder pads and with any luck, that should make my form good to go.

Never having had a form before, it's nice to be able to hang my jackets on them.

It does make me laugh at the mental picture of someone sawing the boobs off a dress form..............................It would be nice if it were that easy to get rid of a little extra 'bustiness'. lol

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 11/1/12 7:26 PM

Quote:
It does make me laugh at the mental picture of someone sawing the boobs off a dress form..............................
Yes? Could you be talking about me??? I did that once....

But seriously, just make sure that the area just above your bustline is as full on the form (or the lack thereof) as it is on you, otherwise it will draw across the front and be too tight there and you'll think you need a large size, when it's the right size on you. (That's the reason why I sawed off the boobs... )

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
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avatrx

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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 11/1/12 9:31 PM

when you say above the bustline, you are referring to my high bust measurement?

based on all the information - it seems that sizing it down and then re-padding it is the way to go.

any suggestions for filling in the waist area? I've had to spread my girl about 3 inches to get the back waist height. The spreading bars are inset, so I need to somehow fill in that area. maybe that rigid stuff they sell at the fabric store that stiffens purses?

It had never occurred to me that the bust would be in the wrong place but it makes sense. I took that measurement from the center of the shoulder seam on the dress form down to the bust point.

I guess my other question would be on the back width vs the front. Do I need to adjust that? I think I proportional, but maybe not? would you suggest that I measure across the back near the bust, and then measure from that same point on the side towards the front? I don't think I have a broad back, but then I never thought my boobs would be in the wrong place either.............lol

Elona
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Date: 11/1/12 10:27 PM

If you have a nonstandard figure, as I do, the best, most time- and energy-efficient thing to do is to make a dressform which duplicates your own individual traits, as shown here.

avatrx

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In reply to Elona <<


Date: 11/2/12 4:08 PM

I would love to do this, but I'm afraid I can't do it alone and there is no one to ask. I live in a very rural area. No one around here sews anything but quilts. I am fairly isolated. My kids all work horrible hours, and the only one that possibly could or would help - lives 1-1/2 hours away and has 2 teenage girls always involved in something that keeps her running between her job and the kids.

One of these days I may ask her, but I know how busy she is. My b-day is December and perhaps I could request this as a birthday present? For Mother's day she comes down and weeds and replants my herb gardens, so she's not opposed to doing stuff - she's just a very busy girl with a 'big-wig' job and lots of family commitments.

Elona
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 11/2/12 4:49 PM

OK, here are the instructions of the estimable Kathryn's DIY, padded out, custom dressform. It requires time and an exact and critical eye, but it can be done alone. She has one for herself, as well as one she created to make for her daughter the most exquisite wedding gown you have ever seen.
-- Edited on 11/2/12 8:56 PM --

Miss Fairchild
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 11/2/12 8:02 PM

Quote:
when you say above the bustline, you are referring to my high bust measurement?



Just barely below that. I have a ski slope bustline (aka "hollow chest) and most dress forms are fuller in this area.
Quote:
it seems that sizing it down and then re-padding it is the way to go.
Yes, exactly! HERE is a link to a PR member's methods.

Quote:
I guess my other question would be on the back width vs the front. Do I need to adjust that?
Yes, I suggest you do this. I once thought I was proportional until I had a DTD made and saw just how much my back torso rolls toward the front (which isn't a broad back issue, as it's the whole torso)

You were saying you live in a rural area with no one to help you. I can so feel your pain! I too live in a rural area, and now that I have some friends, I could never ask them to fit me because they wouldn't know what to look for. So I made a fitting shell and fit myself. Then I removed the standard ease, 3" in the bust, 1" in the waist, and 2" in the hips, and cut another out of cotton canvas. Then I stuffed it. HERE'S some info on that My system crashed, and so did my pictures, but hopefully with the text you can get an idea.

------
"Play the cards you are dealt, but choose who is sitting at the table"..AARP magazine

SEE MY ETSY SHOP HERE: http://www.etsy.com/shop/AuntMaymesAttic
My blog: http://auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com/

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