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Forum > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > Wedding Dress Planning - fabric, construction ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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Wedding Dress Planning - fabric, construction
Help me formulate a plan for this pattern please!
sophielas
sophielas
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Date: 11/5/12 1:03 AM

Hi everyone,

I posted earlier, and using your wonderful help found and bought this Marfy pattern for my wedding dress: Marfy Pattern (thank you so much Clothingengineer for the pic upload - invaluable).

So the pattern has arrived and I've been thinking about how to approach it (what with no instructions), and fabric. My current thinking is to use a silk dupioni for the main skirt, and the main structure panels on the bodice, then use a silk chiffon as an over skirt, and at the top of the bodice.

Do you think silk dupioni is a good idea? And if so, any suggestions on what to underline it with to make it look like the Marfy sketch? I have read that cotton batiste, and even cotton flannel give it a bit more body, but are still soft. Anyone have any clues here? And also, how on earth do you think I would go about doing a lining for the bodice, considering the front is a combination of those chiffon panels? What do you (do you?) underline chiffon with? And would you do a whole separate lining again for the whole dress? Or would just underlining + a good corset/petticoat suffice?

One more thing, do you think it would be worth doing a horsehair braid hem on the main skirt? (I've never done this, only read about it).

I hope someone has some thoughts they could share with me! Much appreciate it.

solosmocker
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Date: 11/5/12 7:35 AM

Silk dupioni has a crisp hand, that is unless you wash it in which case the lovely "glow" will be gone. This fabric, to me, looks like it would be wonderful with a silk charmeuse and a silk chiffon overlay. That would give it a beautiful drape and lots of movement. The crisp dupioni would make it stand away from the body more.

------
http://lasewist.blogspot.com/

carolynw
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In reply to sophielas <<
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Date: 11/5/12 9:57 AM

Just giving my opinion - I think the dress is meant to fall softly so would use a fabric with that characteristic such as satin. For the top no suggestions as have no idea of how it is constructed - if it is chiffon folds then you could do that over a satin bodice - or you could do the folds in the same fabric and bead the waist band - just my thoughts

Congratulations and good luck

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 11/5/12 1:29 PM

What a lovely pattern, and you are SO BRAVE to tackle it without instructions! Go you!

As for fabric, I totally agree with Solosmocker. Dupioni is a gorgeous fabric (my wedding gown was dupioni!), but not drapey enough for this gown. Here's a photo of a gown with what should be a drapey/fluid skirt, but was made with dupioni:



See how crisp it is, how it stands out from the body instead of falling in beautiful fluid folds, and how it looks sort of stiff and wrinkly? A lovely dress, but maybe not quite what you're looking for?

In contrast, here is a gown in silk charmeuse:


See the difference?

For the same reason, I'd recommend against horsehair braid in the skirt. You want your hem to float and swirl around your feet as you walk, not stand out stiffly like a ballgown. (For an example, here is a gown I made with a stiffened hem, using a product similar to horsehair braid.)

Good luck!!

------
~Gem in the prairie

sophielas
sophielas
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Date: 11/5/12 4:00 PM

Hi all,

Thank you so much for your feedback, it's been really helpful.

I was worried that the dupioni might be a bit too stiff for this pattern, and I think that's been confirmed. I was just being blinded by some of the pretty fabrics!

I do want a good drape for the skirt, but I really, really don't want any around-the-bottom or figure-hugging bits, which is why I am apprehensive about the silk charmeuse. I also was looking for fabric that is more matte than shiny. What do you think about silk georgette? and if I used silk georgette, but interlined it with something less drapey like china silk, do you think that would work?

So many thanks!

Anne Frances
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In reply to sophielas <<
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Date: 11/5/12 5:24 PM

They might be rather expensive but if you want a matte look I'd think about a reasonably heavyweight silk crepe or marocaine. They drape beautifully. I used marocaine for this wedding dress . You can see how it drapes in comparison with the dupion of the bridesmaids' dresses. A more glowing shinier result would be produced by a crepe backed satin - like a charmeuse but heavier which I think would be necessary. Good luck - its a wonderful pattern.
Anne

MaryDB
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Date: 11/5/12 9:21 PM

I think that dress would look gorgeous in a 4-ply silk crepe. Beautiful pattern! Yes, you are very brave to do this without instructions.

Good luck!

PattyE
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Date: 11/5/12 11:39 PM

I would go with a silk crepe as well. Crepe would also be easier to work with than charmeuse IMO.
Can't wait to see your dress!

sophielas
sophielas
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Date: 11/6/12 0:00 AM

Thanks everyone, as you can tell, I am very much a beginner when it comes to beautiful silks and lovely dresses! I really like the 4 ply silk crepe idea, thank you - that does seem to be what I had in my mind. A nice drape, but not too shiny or clingy.

One other question, should I underline silk crepe? does that change the drape much? I have read about people using organza as an underlining - would that work for this pattern do you think? make it a bit more substantial, but still drape nicely?

And I am not so much brave as silly for attempting this pattern with no instructions. But I have already learnt a lot just by reading up on all the possible techniques (of course now I have information overload).

I really appreciate all your comments, it's helped me already so much.

tinflutterby
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Date: 11/6/12 0:25 AM

On the topic of being in over your head. Stretching is good for us but so is insurance. I found a expert seamstress when I started a wedding dress that was above (way above) my comfort level. I knew I could do it but I didn't have confidence in some of my answers so I payed for a guide. She also helped fit it. The dress turned out perfect and I was not a nervous wreck. You could probably find someone locally to talk through the construction, help fit the muslin etc. But we still want to hear ALL about it!

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