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trying to get the 'hang' of FBA
adjusting the FBA
avatrx

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Date: 11/12/12 3:55 PM

I keep reading and reading about how to do a FBA. It seems that as opposed to using a size 22 pattern, I should be using a size 18 and then doing a FBA? But then I read that if following the Nancy's notions Pattern Fitting directions, it say to measure yourself from arm crease to arm crease and select your pattern size using that? Doing that I'm back at the size 22. Those seem to contradict each other.

Would you suggest that I get a basic T-shirt type pattern that has a dart and just make it in an 18 and do the FBA? Any suggestions on a pattern like that?

Seems like everything I make lately ends up being put in the rag barrel except for the tunic tops (which are huge!) and the PJ pants. I also successfully made another pair of pants that fit using the sure-fit pants drafter. Aside from those, I'm a complete washout. lots of fabric to turn into rags.................

If I am ever able to get something that fits, can I somehow transfer that to everything else? (tops, jackets, etc)

Tbird

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Subject: trying to get the hang of FBA Date: 11/12/12 4:08 PM

If you have muslin/craptastic fabric handy I would suggest testing it on a woven first since knits can hide fit issues.

As counter intuative as it seems since pattern sizes are larger than RTW one professor suggested to her students to select their Big 4 size based on their RTW size due to the excess of ease.

I feel it's easier to adjust the garment from the armhole down than it is to have to futz with getting the upperchest/armhole/shoulders right.

It takes awhile to get to know what looks right. But if you wanted to work through a patternmaking book what we did in class was do a lot of patterns in 1/2 or 1/4 scale to get used to the manipulations. We practically went through every one in the book in a short amount of time and put them in a binder full of women err patters for reference.

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avatrx

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In reply to Tbird <<


Date: 11/12/12 5:00 PM

I have the Don McCunn(?) book on pattern drafting. I'll have to find that. I forgot about that book. I bought it to try to draft pants.

I guess what I need is the step by step using a smaller size pattern than what I would typically use.

for example:
1 do I cut out the size 18 even though I think I need the 22?

2 when and if I do cut out the 18, at what point do I merge the size 18 lines to the 22 lines?

3 do I do steps 1 and 2 (cut and merge 18 down to 22) first and then make the FBA adjustment on the size 18 top half?

4 can I test this on a basic pattern that only has the front - on the fold, and the back - on the fold. I realize the front is the main piece that would need the alternations. kind of a very simple t-shirt type pattern designed to be used with a woven...........

I know I'm a 22 on the bottom, and larger than 18 at the waist.

I seem to ask tons of questions before I get started, but that is primarily because I can read stuff all day long, but if I just had someone - in person - to show me - I'd get it. I just have a hard time getting it straight in my head without actually seeing it done.

My life was much simpler when I was a fairly standard size. All I usually had to do was add length.

The Nancy's Notions store has a top fitting class that I'd take, but it's not until March 2013. I really wish there was someone around here that could show me what to do. I'm a fast learner when taught hands-on, so bear with me?

Binder full of women? seems like I've heard that before somewhere :-)

I'm a size 14, sometimes a 16 in RTW. depends on the company. cheap? size 16. LandsEnd - usually size 14 and sometimes size 12......

avatrx

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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 11/12/12 5:07 PM

should I just take a size 18 pattern and cut it in half under the arms - make the FBA on the top and then grade it to meet up with the larger size or - since it will be a simple pattern which ends at size 18 - copy the bottom and add to the sides to come up with the hip measurement?

I usually buy the larger sizes, and I'm not sure I have one that goes from 18 - 22. I do have one that ENDS at size 18 (I'm must have grabbed the wrong size when I bought it).
I'll dig. I have tons of patterns - collected at the $.99 sales. just not sure if I have a basic top that uses woven.

sew2006
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Date: 11/12/12 5:24 PM

In choosing a size measure your high bust to pick a size. I trace all my patterns and all corrections need to be done before cutting into fabric. Trace the "18" pattern above the underarm area to get proper neckline, shoulder and upper chest area. Apply the FBA to the pattern below the underarm area. This will add width and lenght to your pattern. You may find that after this alteration you don't need extra width at hip. You can still add 1" SA at the side seams and sleeves.

A lot of tops now have very wide necklines, if you measure from armhole crease to armhole crease divide in half--- compare this measurement from cf of pattern. This will be a good indicator where the neckline is on a pattern before you cut into fabric.

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wendyrb
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In reply to avatrx <<


Date: 11/12/12 5:32 PM

Of course you have a lot of questions and there's more than 1 way to answer each. I suggest you look at Sarah Veblen PR class- Fun with Fitting the Bodice with Darts starting Nov 26th. I took that plus the next one and learned about fitting myself- small shoulder structure but fuller busted

I was leery that an online class would be a way to learn fit, but I improved a ton. Sarah will look at the muslin photos you post and give excellent advise. You muslin again and she continues to comment.

There is only so much I can fully understand by reading principles and instruction first. I learn best by using directions to try things in muslin and see what works on my body. With fitting each garment I build on what I learned before. Gradually the instructions and principles start to make sense. I keep reading and finding other ways to try out. Perfection, not yet, but certainly better than RTW. We all have wadders and the learning curve goes on. It's useful to learn in woven and really see the issues. And also cut yourself some slack- sew up a knit top using what you're learning about fit. They're quick and usually the fit is good enough. Take heart, we're rooting for ya.

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Tbird

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Subject: trying to get the hang of FBA Date: 11/12/12 6:38 PM

I probably would opt for cutting out the 18 then using the FBA to create the extra room internally rather than merging the side seams. Because by blending up 2 sizes your only adding extra fabric at the side seams rather than in the center where you bust is.

But trace off two of the same pattern front do the FBA on one and the blending on the other and see which one "looks" right to you.

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avatrx

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In reply to wendyrb <<


Date: 11/12/12 8:28 PM

I appreciate the support but I'm really beginning to feel like a major pain.

avatrx

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In reply to Tbird <<


Date: 11/12/12 8:36 PM

Quote:
opt for cutting out the 18 then using the FBA to create the extra room internally rather than merging the side seams.


I guess I'm not understanding what you're telling me when you say creating extra room internally. Is that where you do some spreading of the pattern and then just carry it down to the hem?

I found this photo tutorial online here : http://blog.megannielsen.com/2012/04/how-to-do-a-full-bust-adjustment-fba/

I am guessing that what you are referring to is when she states "Spread the centre slash line (line 3) by the size of your bust adjustment. Make sure you keep the slash lines parallel (ie keep the distance the same all the way down). "?

the pattern she's using has a dart. will this work with no dart?
Tbird

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Date: 11/13/12 1:50 AM

Don't feel like a pain. We only know something because someone had the patience to teach us.

Yes it will work without a dart.

Heres a link to a tutorial of a FBA without a dart that little wedge you see doesn't become a dart you just smooth out the side seam so it makes the side seam on the back.

FBA on dartless pattern piece

See also the space created. It's in exactly the area where you will need it and the side seam stays more or less the same so it will still match with the other pieces if you just add or blend at the side seams the fabric may not be exactly where you want it to be and the side seams maybe distorted or longer/shorter than the back.

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