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Message Board > Fitting Woes > Why do my t-shirts ride up? ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Why do my t-shirts ride up?
maybe it's not the FBA...
idahodogs
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idahodogs
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Date: 11/17/12 10:46 AM

I've been working on a basic t-shirt pattern for about 2 months now, with no success. I've tried a combination of Jalie, Ottobre, and SewLiberated patterns, using both the cheater-FBA and the unsewn-dart-eased-in method. No matter what I do, one problem remains - when I raise my arms, the shirt hikes up - and stays there! When I lower my arms, I have major wrinkles above my bust

I thought that I just needed to keep adding width at the bust, but yesterday I went and tried on every RTW t-shirt I have, and I discovered that my very tightest shirt does NOT do this, while every other one does - with the loosest ones being some of the worst offenders!

Does anyone else have this problem, or know what causes it?

PS - I am about a 34/36 at the shoulders, but my full bust would have me sew a 42. My full bust circumference is 35 inches - 15 across my back and 20 in the front. I also seem to need a lot of rise in my sleeve cap - not sure what causes that.

Changma
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Changma  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/17/12 11:02 AM

Tossing this out...maybe your sleeve is too tight or your armscye is not cut low enough, and gets caught under the arm. Can you lay your project on top of a better-fitting shirt of the same type/fabric and compare measurements?
-- Edited on 11/17/12 11:34 AM --

heathergwo
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Date: 11/17/12 11:09 AM

I'm wondering if it's the fabric? Maybe some types of fabric are just more prone to riding up and staying there?

And I have to ask (not in a mean way or anything, but just curious)... does it really matter if you have to pull your shirt down after you raise your arms?? Is it that big of a deal??

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tourist
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Date: 11/17/12 11:20 AM

My guess is that the armscye is too big/too low. On your tight RTW, is the sleeve/body seam nice and close to your body? It is those low arm holes that pull everything up when you lift your arms.

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Changma
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Date: 11/17/12 11:30 AM

Really? Now I am so totally confused. Is this true with wovens AND knits?

LynnRowe
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Date: 11/17/12 11:39 AM

Yes.

Think of undies around your ankles. Try to walk like that.

Think of undies back where they should be, close-fitting around the legs. Much easier to walk now.

Same with armholes. If they're too low, the arms have limited movement and the top gets dragged upwards when the arms are raised. If the armhole is higher and close to the armpit, the arms have full movement and the top isn't dragged when the arms are raised.

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Changma
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Date: 11/17/12 11:42 AM

Ooohhh...

PattiAnnJ
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Date: 11/17/12 12:41 PM

Why not use one of those RTW shirts as your pattern. You could cut apart one that fits and behaves well and use it to compare with the paper patterns.

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JTink
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Date: 11/17/12 1:46 PM

Great advice here...just one other thought. You said you were adding more "width" to the bust area. Have you done an actual FBA where you add length too? If you are large busted(I'm a 34DD)you have to add length as well as the width. If altering your armholes doesn't do the trick, might try a "real" FBA instead of the Cheater.

idahodogs
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Date: 11/17/12 4:51 PM

I've done both the cheater and the 'real' FBA - although I eased in my dart instead of sewing it. I usually have to do a petite alteration above the bust, which I haven't done on this project... and maybe that's the problem!!

I'm now hypothesizing that by skipping the petite alteration, my armscye is ending up too low... thus creating the pulling up thing that tourist mentioned. I shall compare my tight t-shirt to my muslins and see.

Fabric could also be part of it - my fitted T is a very thin, almost tissue-knit 4-way stretch. I have been muslining with a lightly heavier, but still very stretchy 4-way. The shirts that ride up the most are made of the heavier stuff that unisex/men's tees are usually made of.

I don't mind pulling my shirt down a bit every once in a while, but having to constantly tug at it is annoying. I'll settle for it in RTW, but if I can fix it - well, that's why I make my own clothes!

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