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French dart Too long on a large bust
waikikimum Intermediate AUSTRALIA Member since 5/1/08 Posts: 271	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 11/18/12 7:20 PM I have been making a Silhouette pattern 115,Anne's Top and having trouble with the french dart. I have a large bust (E cup) and know that the dart should end further away from my bust point but no matter what it wants to form and finish very close to it. If I don't take it high enough I have extra fabric causing wrinkles. Can anyone suggest a reason for this? I will add that this has happened not just on this pattern but on any that has a vertical type dart. ------ Kathy Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/
sewme47   Intermediate IL USA Member since 8/28/08 Posts: 546	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 11/18/12 7:32 PM I also have a large bust, and also had problems with Silhouette's french darts....they are hard to get "just right" especially in knits. Maybe it's because I'm plus-sized everywhere, not just at the bustline. Anyway, I now rotate french darts to high up on the side seam, just under the armhole. This works great for me! hth ------ A balanced diet is a cupcake in each hand.
Miss Fairchild   Advanced USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 7003	Login to reply to this post In reply to waikikimum << 1 member likes this. Date: 11/18/12 8:28 PM The bust point on a Silhouette pattern covers a 3" radius, so anywhere you move the vertical portion of that dart, would be okay. Although I'm not as full busted as you, I too have trouble with vertical darts as well as French darts and I move the dart tip up, due to my "ski slope" chest. ------ "We don't impose our rhythm on Nature. The key is to respect and live within Her." Jean-Charles Boisset, Winemaker "And no, now that you asked, I didn't enjoy that play one bit, and I'd like a refund" Signed, Mrs. Lincoln My Etsy shop: auntmaymesattic My blog: auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com Avatar: First place award for jacket at county fair
waikikimum Intermediate AUSTRALIA Member since 5/1/08 Posts: 271	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 11/18/12 10:15 PM Thank you both for your replies. Sewme47, I am plus sized everywhere too and I found that after doing the french dart the fabric still wanted to form a horizontal dart at the bust line from the side seam. Miss Fairchild thanks for reminding me of the 3" radius, I think I just got stuck on the idea that the dart should finish a lot sooner on a large bust. I think when using a vertical dart I will definitely need to add a second dart somewhere else. To complicate my fit issues I am a short, plus sized, large busted and curvy girl so there are a lot of fit issues to fix in a short vertical space.... Apart from this dart issue I actually really liked the pattern and the straight forward easy instructions. I also enjoy watching Peggy's webcasts and have learnt a lot. ------ Kathy Waikiki, Perth, Western Australia http://waikikimum-sipandsew.blogspot.com/
JEF   Intermediate VA USA Member since 7/27/05 Posts: 2443 Board Moderator	Login to reply to this post In reply to waikikimum << Like this post Date: 11/19/12 12:22 PM Do you perhaps just need a bigger dart? Can you pinch that extra "want to be a dart" fabrib into the dart and have the top look roughly right? If you can, then you just try a bigger dart. You may need to shorten the back since more dart uptake will shorten your front side seam. JEF ------ "The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." --Abraham Lincoln

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