Member since 12/16/05
Skill: Advanced Beginner
Date: 11/20/12 6:07 AM
I finally think I have the whole FBA thing with tons of help from all of you on PR.
Has anyone here made the Silhouette pattern classic jacket pattern number 1900?
I know Peggy Sagers is 5'8" so it seem rather surprising to me that her jacket pattern seems to have a back waist length of a little over 15" in size 5W. I am 5'10+ and I measure 18".
I pinned the tissue on my dressform and it does seem to be really short waisted. The bust point is right where it should be, but the waist mark is really high.
I know everyone says to sew up a muslin - which I plan to do, but I'd like to at least get close before I start.
The other question I have is this: When transitioning from a 6W to a 5W or vice versa - what is a good way to keep the transition lines on each piece consistent with one another? It would seem necessary to make sure that where you enlarged or reduced from one size to another that you keep that reduction in the exact same spot on each piece. OR - if the adjustment is only one inch overall, would it be easier to just use the larger size and take in once the muslin is sewn together?
One more option: just do the 1" alteration on only 1 section such as the back? In other words - trace out the size 6W for the back, or perhaps the back and side back, but leave the front a 5W?
I'm not quite sure how to approach this, but first - if someone has made this pattern - am I right about the short back waist length? It's not marked anywhere like a standard pattern. (not on the guide sheet, not on the envelope, and not on the tissue).
Member since 10/13/04
Date: 11/21/12 7:06 AM
I would call or e-mail Peggy Sagers with all of your questions. She is more than happy to answer any questions you may have.
Member since 10/26/08
In reply to avatrx
Date: 11/21/12 11:36 PM
There is one review for this pattern so check it out. It may be of some help to you.
Member since 8/24/02
In reply to avatrx
Date: 11/22/12 7:54 PM
I'm not sure what you're asking as I don't have this particular pattern, but have many of her others. Is what you are saying that there is no BW lengthen/shorten lines?
As to working with the pattern first, I used to be like you--figuring out things on paper before I spent the time draping (aka "muslining"), but finally decided that draping was the better approach; mostly because patternmakers draft patterns differently. What works for one brand won't always work for another (with the exception of the Big 4).
If you're 5'10", then you need to add 2" to the lengthening adjustments, and it should be in the same spot on both front and back. Peggy is 5'8", and this is what she says to do because she's the one who drafts the patterns. I once got stuck in the same thing, but then went ahead and muslined. I'm just under 5'8", due to menopause, but interestingly, even though I've lost an inch, I have a high round back that about takes up that amount, so my lengthening is in a different area, near my shoulders, with the subsequent shortening is in another part (just above my waist)
Peggy tries her best to encourage us to "think outside the box" and stop sticking with what we've been taught with the Big 4. It's been a hard road for me to change, as you can't easily teach an old dinosaur a new trick, but I'm learning!
What I can suggest is cut the muslin out with the 2" added to the length, somewhere above your waist and below your bustline. Then fit it to you; you can always adjust it by making a dart or tuck, and then transferring that to your pattern.
As to your question about transitioning, I'd suggest you make the larger size then drape it to you. Reason being is that Peggy shows this alot on her webcasts; she'll make a larger size, then pin it out to the suggested one. You can always trim it back. But if you want to know how to transition between the two, get a french curve (she has another webcast that shows you how to use one of these) and remember the number sequence, then use that sequence in the transition.
Hope I've helped rather than confuse you.
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