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Forum > Fitting Woes > Vogue 1303 ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Vogue 1303
fitting issues I need help with
Jove
Jove
Member since 9/19/12
Posts: 6
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 11/25/12 5:42 PM

Hi Everyone! I hope you can help me with these fitting issues. You can see pictures on my blog at Tea for Jove

I made a muslin that isn't too bad. I need to lengthen the bottom part and widen the hip area and I'm fine with doing those things.

Fitting problem #1 - The upper bust/gaping armhole. I always seem to have this problem where it gaps at the armhole. I really don't want to put a dart there, especially since I'm using a patterned fabric. I think I need to make the armhole smaller. Otherwise, the top part of the dress fits well around the bust and gives me good movement. This is what Sandra Betzina's Fast Fit book says and I think I will follow the directions and see if that fixes the problem for me.

#2 The back. My zipper is bunching up in the back. I think this might be because the hips are too small and hence, the dress is riding up and not hanging correctly. The dress isn't too tight around the waist section (the pleated part), just the hips.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

SandiMacD
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SandiMacD
USA
Member since 2/8/09
Posts: 2564
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Date: 11/26/12 1:47 AM

It looks to me that the neck to waist length is too long. If you pull up the fabric on both shoulders does it sit better and still give the bust ease that you need? If so I would do a shoulder adjustment first and then see if you still need to adjust the armhole smaller.
It might be that you have forward slopping shoulders and just need to take it out of the front. The back shoulders and neckline is OK but shortening the back neck to waist should eliminate the bunched zipper.
-- Edited on 11/26/12 1:56 AM --

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Jove
Jove
Member since 9/19/12
Posts: 6
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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In reply to SandiMacD <<


Date: 11/26/12 12:32 PM

I hadn't even thought of a shoulder adjustment. Thank you so much!!

MNBarb
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MNBarb  Friend of PR
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Date: 11/27/12 12:50 PM

Too long in the torso? Need a full bust adjustment? Those woud be my guesses.

You can rotate that dart somewhere else on your bodice.

Maybe try having someone pin out the length excess to get a better idea of how to solve that issue.

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Barb
"I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." Thomas Edison
"I not only use all the brains I have, but all I can borrow." Woodrow Wilson

LauraTS
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LauraTS  Friend of PR
California USA
Member since 7/10/06
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In reply to MNBarb <<


Date: 11/27/12 1:36 PM

Quote: MNBarb
Too long in the torso? Need a full bust adjustment? Those woud be my guesses.


I agree. I would pin out the excess length all around and see how many of the other issues that solves. You also might want to start with a size smaller of a bodice at the shoulder, because the shoulder/neckline looks a little wide, and then do an FBA and end up at the larger size equivalent below the bust.

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