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Message Board > Fitting Woes > How to fit an evening gown Vogue 8556 with large bust and narrow back ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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How to fit an evening gown Vogue 8556 with large bust and narrow back
Fitting large bust/ narrow back
rrazzall
rrazzall
Intermediate
Member since 11/5/10
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Date: 11/26/12 7:26 AM

I am making an evening gown Vogue 8556, and I am currently testing the bodice out in muslin before I cut into my expensive fabric.

I have a large bust but narrow back (28G bra size) and so cut a size 12-14 to fit the bust but always end up with lots of fabric gaping at the back which I try to hunch into the side seams - which raises the waistline at the sides and affects the hang.

Looking online it seems I need measure my high bust (never done this before) and do an FBA, plus a narrow back adjustment.

I've never made pattern adjustments like this (only ever lengthened/shortened) so I'm a bit nervous. All the examples I find for the FBA are for patterns where the adjustments are made on one pattern piece, but my pattern has the upper bodice and a midriff section, with a gathered section over the top of that. I'm not sure which pattern pieces I need to adjust, and by how much, so if anyone has any brainwaves or tips on making these adjustments I would be really grateful!

clothingengineer
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clothingengineer  Friend of PR
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In reply to rrazzall <<


Date: 11/26/12 9:57 AM

I made this dress a few years ago, though never got around to reviewing it. The waist panel of the bodice needs to be very form fitting or else the gathers droop and don't sit correctly. I'm a 32B and my underbust measures 28". I made a 12 out of some silk jersey and while I ended up making it work, I really should have gone down to a 10. I think I pinched out over 2" from the back (removing a total of over 4"). Granted my silk jersey had stretch, but not THAT much stretch.

Obviously I'm not full busted myself, but here's how I would approach this:

The bust section of the bodice has some pleats/gathers at the bottom. This is what creates the shaping and volume for the bust. You are going to need to widen the bottom of this piece via slashing and spreading. When you construct it, you can add an extra pleat or two at the bottom and widen the other two to make it fit into the waist panel. You're going to also need to lengthen this same piece, as larger cup sizes require extra length as well as width.

Before I went about doing the FBA I would make up a muslin of the skirt and waist panels. Then as you're fitting the bust make sure you attach those pieces to the waist panel as the weight of the skirt will have some effect on how the bust pieces fit.

------
-- Anne

rrazzall
rrazzall
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Date: 11/26/12 11:59 AM

That's really helpful, thank you.

When you pinched out the extra at the back, did you do this at the centre back/ zip?

Really good to have the tip about the gathered section too - much appreciated.

meleliza
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meleliza  Friend of PR
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PA
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Date: 12/2/12 6:30 PM

Normally, you start with a size that corresponds to your high bust measurement so that the pattern fits your overall frame. However, since this pattern doesn't have and shoulders really, I would be tempted to start with the size that fits your under bust and midriff. Measure the pattern pieces themselves at the waist or high waist to see.

This isn't a straightforward FBA, just so you know, and it wouldn't be one I'd recommend for a first attempt. But how I would go about it is this: the gathers at the under bust and at the shoulders are an alternative to bust darts. They create the volume needed to go around the curve of the bust. In order for this to fit a large bust, you need to add length and width to the bodice pieces. Do an FBA for an undarted bodice, which creates a bust dart where there wasn't one before, then rotate that dart into both the under bust and the shoulder gathers. Then you'll be gathering up your bodice pieces more to create the extra fullness you need.

To determine how much extra room you need, look at the finished bust measurement for your size, then measure your fullest bust point. Probably in this drapy soft style, you want just a little extra room for ease. If you need more than 2" you may have problems.

Fit for Real People shows basic FBA methods. You can find how to rotate a dart by googling or searching here on pattern review.

You may want to consider whether you can find an affordable bra that will fit under this dress. It can be hard to find a plunging strapless in large sizes.

------
Melanie

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