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Full Bust adjustment on a lined, princess seamed jacket
which pieces do I use.
avatrx

avatrx  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/1/12 5:21 AM

I found a good article on how to do a FBA on a blouse, but when doing a jacket that has princess seams AND facings AND linings,
which pieces do you use and how do you use them once you have the main adjustment done?

Do you have to copy the FBA on the lining pieces? How does the FBA affect the facing? It must need some alterations as well?

Fictionfan
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Fictionfan  Friend of PR
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In reply to avatrx <<
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Date: 12/1/12 6:23 PM

Yes, you need to alter all the parts that are affected by your FBA, including any upper and lower panels, peplums, skirts, flounces, linings, overlays, facings, interfacings, underlinings, etc. that are sewn to, flow from, or cross over the bust area. If the pattern pieces are the same for the main garment as for the lining or facing or interfacing, there is no extra work to do once you've made the FBA.

Once you have your main pattern pieces altered, the facing for your jacket will probably only need a change in the length at the center front, where you are likely to have added length to the center fronts of the jacket.

If you rotate a dart into the shoulder or under the lapel, make equivalent changes on the facing pieces so the seam lines match. The changes don't have to be exactly the same. For example, you probably don't want the facing to have a dart sewn in that same spot under the lapel, but you can get the seam lines to match by making other changes to get the facing to lie smoothly inside the jacket.

The jacket lining may be constructed differently from the princess seamed jacket front. If it is also princess seamed, use the same alterations on the lining pieces that you make on the jacket pieces. If it is not princess seamed, you will need to make separate, equivalent adjustments to the darted lining as for the jacket. As long as the amounts of change at the seam lines and overall length and width dimensions are the same, your lining and jacket should fit together properly, provided the pattern is drafted correctly for matching seam lines.

Remember that the outer garment layer (the body) and the inside layer (the lining) are often slightly different sizes to allow for differences in the give of the fabrics used, for ease of getting the jacket on and off, and to make the garment more comfortable to wear.

A big part of the art of fitting alterations is making the changes in ways that don't change the intent of the original design (unless you want the design change).

Always work with the seam lines when measuring and altering.

HTH

------
Fictionfan

Marcia R
Marcia R  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/2/12 9:47 AM

I recommend you get the book, Jackets for Real People, by Alto, Neal and Palmer. You will see pictures and detailed instructions for doing the FBA on a jacket with lining. Great book.

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