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Changing zipper
OBX
OBX
North Carolina USA
Member since 4/23/10
Posts: 189
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 12/2/12 7:56 AM

Do you have to make alterations to the original pattern when changing a zipper? I want to make a dress that includes a back zipper, but it isn't an invisible one in the instructions. I know the application will be different, but do I need to subtract any fabric since the flap covering the zipper won't be there anymore?
Lindy Ann
Lindy Ann  Friend of PR
Kansas USA
Member since 1/26/12
Posts: 128
Skill: Advanced
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Date: 12/2/12 10:30 AM

No, you don't need to substract anything. Just carefully follow the order of construction for the invisible zipper, and do not sew the seam below the zipper opening until after the zipper is in.

I have found that on many dresses and tops that call for a back zipper, none is needed. I just sew up the whole center back seam (no adjustments to the seam allowance). The key is whether the neckline is low enough/large enough in circumference to fit over your head. I need about 21 inches length of neckline to be able to eliminate the back zipper. Then I save the cost of the zipper, all the bother, and am assured of a smooth center bsck seam.

Linda
OBX
OBX
North Carolina USA
Member since 4/23/10
Posts: 189
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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In reply to Lindy Ann

Date: 12/2/12 11:50 AM

Thanks for the info and the reminder not to sew the bottom of the seam. I'll have to highlight the directions so I don't forget. I ordered an invisible zipper foot for my machine and I'd like to try it out. Unfortunately, the collar won't allow for omitting the zipper this time.
Nancy K
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Nancy K
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In reply to OBX

Date: 12/2/12 1:13 PM

Make sure that you use light weight interfacing in the seam allowances about 1" longer than the zipper opening. To get the zippers to line up properly make a small snip about 1/8" below the neckline seam and make one on the zipper as well. Chalk always wears off. Line up the snips and you should eliminate the dreaded bulge at the bottom of the zipper.

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www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Patti B
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Patti B  Friend of PR
Member since 9/29/02
Posts: 2632
Skill: Intermediate
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In reply to Nancy K

Date: 12/3/12 10:09 AM

Nancy, excellent advice to 'key' the zipper and use interfacing. Both of these tips have saved me from hair-pulling many times when sewing zippers. And if there is a horizontal seam, make a snip at that point too to make matching easier.

------
Patti

R-r-r-ripping my way to fitting success

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