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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Sleeve placket with two-piece sleeve?

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Sleeve placket with two-piece sleeve?
sydney800
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sydney800
Intermediate
TX
Member since 2/13/10
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Date: 12/2/12 3:04 PM

Hello! First-time poster here! I was hoping someone could weigh in on inserting a sleeve placket on a shirt with a two-piece sleeve. If this topic has been addressed elsewhere, please let me know! I am making M6436, and one sleeve seam lines up with the side seam, while the other falls further back where the placket would normally be attached. The instructions would have you turn the edges under and stitch, leaving a slit rather than have any overlap. I am considering adding either a continuous lap binding or a sleeve placket. My questions are:
1) would a placket look odd set on a seam? Would a continuous lap be the better choice?
2) How do I best address the seam finish? I am planning to do a flat-felled seam, and was thinking of finishing it to the top of where the placket would be, and then trimming the seam allowance below and inserting the placket or lap afterward. Hopefully, I would be able to then line it up so the "step" of the flat-felled seam would be enclosed in the top of the placket. Does this make sense? Any suggestions? Thank you!

SunnyAlta
SunnyAlta
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Member since 7/11/10
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Date: 12/2/12 5:16 PM

DH has a RTW shirt with 2 seams on the sleeve. The placket goes over a top-stitched seam. Seam does not line up with the very middle end of the placket but falls more towards the side of the placket. (It's not centered to where they meet.) Believe it's a one piece placket cut to be folded & then stitched but cannot say for certain. The other seam is flat-felled & a little more "stiff". Not sure I'd do a flat-felled seam where it meets with the placket as it will leave some bulk. DH's shirt is just a thin cotton.

You might check Pam's site to see if she has anything helpful there.

http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.ca/

sydney800
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sydney800
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In reply to SunnyAlta <<


Date: 12/2/12 11:17 PM

Thanks for the reply and the link. Is the seam with the placket serged and top-stitched, since it's not flat-felled? I will have to do a couple of practice pieces, as well as check out the link you posted!

Pam~Off The Cuff~
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Pam~Off The Cuff~  Friend of PR
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In reply to sydney800 <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 12/3/12 8:08 AM

Hi!
Although I have many shirt-making tutorials on my site,
http://off-the-cuff-style.blogspot.com
I do not have a tutorial about placket construction on a 2-piece sleeve. Why? I don't particularly like 2-piece shirt sleeves, so I do not draft patterns that have them. ;)

------
~Pam

Pamela Erny
OFF THE CUFF ~Style~
www.Off-The-Cuff-Style.blogspot.com
and My Store...
www.FashionSewingSupply.com !

SunnyAlta
SunnyAlta
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In reply to sydney800 <<


Date: 12/3/12 8:58 AM

Yes, the seam is serged & then top-stitched.

Bombyxmori
Bombyxmori
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AR
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Date: 12/24/12 11:34 PM

First time poster here as well, probably coming in weeks after completion of your blouse.

I made M6613, which calls for the same cuff treatment. Since I'm new to shirtmaking and trying to learn classic techniques, I taped the sleeve pattern pieces together, then used DPC's placket pattern and method. FWIW, having read Pam's blog extensively gave me the confidence to do this. And it came out fine.
-- Edited on 12/24/12 11:36 PM --

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