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Forum > Beginner's Forum > I Don't Get How to Do This Neckline/Yoke/Collar Thing ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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I Don't Get How to Do This Neckline/Yoke/Collar Thing
Obviously, I don't even know what it's called.
AllNewtoMe
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Date: 12/3/12 3:26 PM

I'm trying to knit the draped dress in the newest Burda. It has a sweetheart neckline and there is an extension piece near the neckline that wraps around the back. I made a muslin and struggled through the instructions but it looks...not good.

The main problem is I don't even know what I'm looking for (name of that neckline), and my internet searches haven't helped.

This is the pattern:
http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/draped-dress-plus-size-122012

And here is the line drawing.

Help, please?

Patti B
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Subject: I Dont Get How to Do This Neckline/Yoke/Collar Thing Date: 12/3/12 4:50 PM

Nice dress! I don't know what that piece is called either but I'm assuming that you mean the upper bodice piece that goes around the neck to the zipper. What particular problem are you having with it? The sewing of it? The fit? What do the instructions say? Bursa is known for its sparse instructions so someone may be able to add something helpful.

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AllNewtoMe
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In reply to Patti B <<


Date: 12/3/12 5:11 PM

Here are the directions:

Quote:
Stitch interfaced front yoke pieces to fronts, from seam marks (seam number 1). Press seam allowances onto yokes. Stitch interfaced front yokes to back pieces, exactly from corner (shoulder seams)--seam allowances of back neck edge extend. Clip seam allowances diagonally into corners. Press seam allowances forward. Stitch collar to back neck edge, right sides facing. Press seam allowances onto collar.


I don't understand what it means to press a seam allowance forward, and even when I clip the corner, I get a weird fold over that looks ugly.
-- Edited on 12/3/12 5:12 PM --
DonnaH
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In reply to AllNewtoMe <<


Date: 12/3/12 6:32 PM

I may be wrong, but it sounds like after you sew the shoulder seams, you need to press them forward - and do this before you sew the back/collar. It also sounds like you need to watch out not to catch up the SA of the back neck edge when you sew the shoulder seams (that "to extend" instruction).

And you need to clip into a corner (not clip corner - which is usually an outside corner when it's clipped) to keep it from pulling.

But I've never made this pattern o anything like it, so I could be totally off!

Nancy K
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In reply to AllNewtoMe <<


Date: 12/3/12 6:56 PM

The yoke pieces, pattern pieces #3, have the collar attached to it. You are sewing from from the marked seam end, this is which is the shoulder in one direction and the collar in the other.
Then you are going to sew the front shoulder to the back shoulder until you get to the corner, mark # 2. You will clip into the corner, so that you can sew the back neck edge of the collar to the back neck edge of the bodice. Press this shoulder seam forward, in other words, onto the front bodice. Now you will stitch that curved extension, which is the back neck band more than a collar though they cal it a collar. You will sew from the exact point that you stopped on the shoulder seam to the center back.
Sometimes things that you are unfamiliar with are easier if you make a few samples until you understand how to do it. You can just cut the upper back and yoke on some muslin and sew it until it looks good.
-- Edited on 12/3/12 6:57 PM --

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AllNewtoMe
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Date: 12/3/12 8:58 PM

Thank you for your help.

I think it would help if I chalked the actual sewing lines on the pieces, so I know exactly where to stop and start. I will try that.

I think I get it...a little. :D

Patti B
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Subject: I Dont Get How to Do This Neckline/Yoke/Collar Thing Date: 12/4/12 8:32 AM

Making samples will definitely help because this type of seaming can be puzzling. Good luck!

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Patti

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nicegirl
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Date: 12/4/12 9:40 AM

For this, it might be worth buying a sale pattern that has this neckline and using Big 4 directions, which will have diagrams, staystitching instructions, and such.

Joann has Simplicity and Burda on sale this weekend. It looks like Simplicity 2283 has that front-extending-into-back-collar.

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2007: purchased 115+, sewed 105+
So close to parity, yet so far

Trying again in 2008
Yards purchased: 133
Yards sewn: Somewhere around 95

2009? I give up

Immelu
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Date: 12/4/12 10:23 PM

I must be a real dork, because I get a kick out of puzzling through Burda instructions. It's like solving crossword puzzles. Can someone list the magazine number? I'd like to look this pattern up.

Thanks!

KathySews
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In reply to Immelu <<
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Date: 12/5/12 7:01 AM

HERE IT IS Very pretty dress

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