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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Length in a Fullish Long Coat

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Length in a Fullish Long Coat
Adding length at the bottom (Vogue 1148)
elfchick
elfchick
Member since 7/19/08
Posts: 22
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Date: 12/3/12 11:03 PM

Hoo boy, I have been in love with Vogue 1148 (http://sewing.patternreview.com/Patterns/35227) since I saw it. Minus the front pockets and the ties on the skirt :)

I've finished my mockup of the top and am moving on to the skirt. I'm tall. I want to add maybe as much as 10". The pattern says if I'm adding length, to add it to the bottom of the piece. In general, on something like this, am I going to want to add the length straight down from the pattern pieces, or am I going to want to continue the line of the pattern piece? Because, my goodness, if I continue the line of the pattern piece, these are going to be huge. The skirt is pretty full already.

Or should I try moving the bottom line straight down, and drawing a line from the waist to the bottom?

I'm willing to try a mockup of it all three ways. I just thought someone might know offhand if there's a good rule of thumb. I could go through a LOT of mockup fabric and stitching before I find the right combination. If anyone has advice, I'd love to hear it.

Thank you!

Ruth

Ruth
Intermediate
NEW ZEALAND
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 76
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Date: 12/4/12 3:55 AM

How wide is the pattern at the bottom of the skirt and how wide do you want it to be?

I'd be inclined to trace the skirt pattern pieces and make one or more horizontal horizontal cuts in the skirt piece, add length to each (and maybe at the hem) and then true up the side seams. Otherwise the skirt might be ridiculously full at the bottom and the pattern piece might not fit your fabric

KathySews
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MI USA
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Date: 12/4/12 7:47 AM

The Coat I think Ruth gave great advice. If you just lengthen it you could have too much fullness.

elfchick
elfchick
Member since 7/19/08
Posts: 22
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Date: 12/4/12 9:28 AM

Thanks! There are "add length here" lines /in/ the sleeves and the bodice pieces, but the pattern says to add length at the bottom of the skirt pieces. This is my first undertaking of this magnitude, so I wasn't sure how much to monkey around with the instructions.

Measuring around, the bottoms of the pattern pieces add up to 84", NOT counting the overlap at the front. Just from center front to center back. So that makes the whole skirt 168" all the way around, already. (Gee. That's 14'.) Obviously a little of that will come out for hems and seams--there's three pieces, so 5 seams, since the front is open... at 5/8" twice over per seam that's still not a lot of reduction.) But my goodness, it seems like adding to the fullness would be huge. On the other hand, as I said already, this is my first undertaking of this magnitude; maybe that's typical? Maybe I *do* need more if I'm going to make it longer? I just don't know.

I thank you for the encouragement to open the pattern pieces and add in the middle. I'll try pinning them to the mockup and measuring down to try to get the same distance down all around. I was hesitant, but with your supportI'll do it! I appreciate the responses.

elfchick
elfchick
Member since 7/19/08
Posts: 22
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Date: 12/4/12 12:38 PM

Just for my own reference, I went out and measured my old "Down Under" oilskin duster/drover's coat. It's 28" from front to back at the bottom hem, with an insert that allows expansion another 46" (for riding). So that's 103" total, or 8 1/2'.

I think 14' will be quite enough, even with added length, on this coat :)

Thanks again!

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