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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Increasing seam allowance for armsyche

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Increasing seam allowance for armsyche
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newbie2008

newbie2008
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Date: 12/5/12 0:12 AM

I have an old Kwik Sew pattern for Pjs, KS3042. I am using a cotton, and want to increase the seam allowance from 1/4 to 5/8. How do I adjust the armsyche? If I just increase the SA by 3/8 on the front and back arm holes, as well as raise the sleeve cap, then the sleeve is too large to fit the curve.

clt3
clt3
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Date: 12/5/12 6:48 AM

If you just add 3/8" to the seam allowance and don't make any other changes, the seam line will stay exactly the same.

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petro
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Date: 12/5/12 8:14 AM

The measurements which need to match when stitching a seam together are the fitting or stitching lines. The wider the seam allowance you add on curved pieces the bigger discrepancy there is between the cutting line length and the stitching line length, but its still the stitching lines you match.

newbie2008

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Date: 12/5/12 12:50 PM

What you all say is right, the stitching lines may not have changed, but now the two pieces of fabric to be sewn together do not match. The curve of the front and back bodices have narrowed (filled in) and the curve on the sleeve cap of the one-piece sleeve has elongated (higher curve).

JTink
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JTink
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Date: 12/5/12 3:26 PM

Can any of you do a visual...I have re-read these things and still clear as mud

simplystitches
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Date: 12/5/12 3:48 PM

Did you also add the 3/8" to the bodice seams?

Debbie

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In reply to newbie2008 <<
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Date: 12/5/12 7:42 PM

Quote: newbie2008
What you all say is right, the stitching lines may not have changed, but now the two pieces of fabric to be sewn together do not match. The curve of the front and back bodices have narrowed (filled in) and the curve on the sleeve cap of the one-piece sleeve has elongated (higher curve).

That's right. They won't match. You just match the stitching line and if you sew accurately, it will come out fine at the end. This is why it's hard to do very curved seams with large seam allowances. I suspect this is one of the reasons Kwiksew used 1/4" SA in the first place!
newbie2008

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Date: 12/5/12 8:46 PM

yes, also added the 3/8" to front and back bodice pieces - at side seams, shoulders, and armscyche.

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