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sleeve heads
appropriate thickness?
Lynnelle
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Lynnelle  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/26/12 3:26 PM

I'm working on a jacket (Jalie 2559) made of a medium-weight rayon-poly-lycra stretch woven. The fabric is heavy enough to not be see-through, but light enough to drape well and maintain some degree of structure. Below is a picture of the jacket and skirt (both made of the same type of material) in progress. Hopefully this gives an idea of how the fabric drapes.



I want to include sleeve heads in this jacket as I did in my first (and doomed) attempt at this pattern (shown below).



I've searched the message boards for ideas about thicknesses and couldn't quite find the answer to my question. Which is... How thick should the sleeve head be for this fabric? The brown jacket was made in a thick wool flannel and I used bias strips of polar fleece for the sleeve heads. I have flannel, more polar fleece, hair canvas, self fabric, and fusible sleeve heads (which are not quite as thick as the polar fleece). I suppose I could try all types, but I don't want to stress the armhole by sewing and unpicking the seams. Any thoughts?

Thanks much.

L
-- Edited on 12/26/12 3:32 PM --

couturemom
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couturemom
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Date: 12/27/12 7:06 AM

I would try the flannel and hand-baste it to test. Removing those long stitches shouldn't create too much stress on the seam allowance.

jadamo00
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Date: 12/27/12 8:41 AM

"High-Fashion Sewing Secrets" by Claire B. Shaeffer

Cotton wadding
1/2" thick
1 1/2 " wide
8" long

Don't buy anything more: use something you already have and improvise.

Sleeve heads are the kind of thing that when I was a beginner, I just wouldn't do. But once I tried it, I saw how gorgeous it makes that upper arm/shoulder look. And they're easy! It's really just a little roll of "stuffing" at the upper sleeve where it meets the shoulder to keep it from collapsing into your upper arm -- keep it nice and straight and formed and tailored.

As Couturemom says, try doubling or tripling the flannel and do a real looooong baste and try it on. There's no reason to unpick the seam: just baste the sleeve head onto the extra seam allowance!

Trust me, you won't be agonizing over this. Something you have will work just fine.

(GREAT book, by the way! Check it out HERE ON AMAZON where you can "Look Inside!"



j.









-- Edited on 12/28/12 8:48 AM --

nancy2001
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In reply to Lynnelle <<


Date: 12/28/12 7:05 PM

I use Warm & Natural Cotton Quilt Batting for the sleeve heads of all the tailored jackets I sew.

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

jadamo00
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jadamo00
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In reply to nancy2001 <<


Date: 12/28/12 7:09 PM

Yes, Nancy, I do the same thing: cut a strip out of quilt batting. Maybe double it if I need some extra loft.

Lynnelle
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Date: 12/28/12 8:45 PM

jadamo00 and nancy2001: Do you pre-shrink the batting first?

Here are a couple of pictures of the two samples basted in: one is the fleece, the other is the cotton flannel. The sleeves aren't set; they're pinned at the shoulder point seam. Can you tell which is which?





jadamo00
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In reply to Lynnelle <<


Date: 12/28/12 9:54 PM

I don't pre-shrink (anything...!)

I can't tell which is which.

j.

nancy2001
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In reply to Lynnelle <<


Date: 12/31/12 6:00 PM

You do not preshrink the quilt batting -- you use it as is. I've always used quilt batting because I once bought a premade men's sleeve head (I do not recommend that you try to hunt these premade men's sleeve heads down because they're the wrong size and shape), and this particular sleeve head was made with Warm & Natural Quilt Batting. So, I bought a couple of yards and now have a lifetime supply.

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No sewing project is ever a complete success nor a total failure.

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