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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Which seam technique is used on Men's RTW shirts? ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Which seam technique is used on Men's RTW shirts?
DOGLOVER389
DOGLOVER389
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Date: 12/29/12 4:02 PM

Hi All,

I am looking at some of my RTW shirts and cannot figure out which seam technique is used on the side and sleeve seams.

I know it is a continuous seam, but it neither seems to be a French nor Flat Felled seam.

Both of those seams leave a single line of stitching and teh only visible stitching on the RTW garments is done with a twin needle.

The raw edges are completely enclosed, but I cannot envision how to do that without first basting the seams, which I doubt they do during the construction of hte RTW garments.

Can anyone tell me which technique is used on those seams, or how to do it?

Many thanx.


DogLover389

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Scheri
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Scheri  Friend of PR
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Date: 12/30/12 2:43 AM

They would be flat felled seams.

if you are interested craftsy.com has a great course with Pam Howard on Tailored Shirts.

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SandiMacD
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Subject: Which seam technique is used on Mens RTW shirts? Date: 12/30/12 4:26 AM

I'm taking her class. She is very meticulous about every detail.

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Karla Kizer
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In reply to DOGLOVER389 <<


Date: 12/30/12 6:46 AM

If you use a flat-felled seam, start by stitching the seam line with the wrong sides of the fabric together. That stitching line will, of course, be visible. Then, when the seam allowance is folded and pressed on the outside of the garment, you'll edgestitch that fold in place and that's the second line of visible stitching.

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“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

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Vireya
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Subject: Which seam technique is used on Mens RTW shirts? Date: 12/30/12 5:42 PM

Industrial processes don't involve any basting because they have special felling machines which do all the folding of edges and stitching all in one pass. Reproducing the effect at home takes more time and effort as Karla has described.

andye
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Date: 12/30/12 7:23 PM

Better shirts are made using a single needle tailoring process that still involves two passes with the needle. Industrial machines do have better quality feet and attachments, and have enough pressure that pins are not required, but some of this can be imitated by home sewers.

see this thread for more details
-- Edited on 12/30/12 7:26 PM --

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Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

dscheidt

dscheidt
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In reply to Karla Kizer <<


Date: 12/30/12 10:48 PM

Quote: Karla Kizer
If you use a flat-felled seam, start by stitching the seam line with the wrong sides of the fabric together. That stitching line will, of course, be visible. Then, when the seam allowance is folded and pressed on the outside of the garment, you'll edgestitch that fold in place and that's the second line of visible stitching.

That depends on the effect you want. Many of my best quality shirts are done with a single needle machine, with two passes, same as you'd do at home, of those, many have at least some of the seams done with right sides together, and so only one line of visible stitching. I'd want two lines of stitching on something where I want the stitching to be noticed, but not something where it's disappearing.
Miss Fairchild
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In reply to dscheidt <<


Date: 12/31/12 8:10 AM

Karla's right on this, but she didn't mention you trim one of the seam allowances very close to the stitching, then fold the larger seam allowance over. The first seam allowance will roll toward the front to be visible. I do alterations for a men's store and this is how I do it, and I have to do it in two passes.

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Karla Kizer
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In reply to Miss Fairchild <<


Date: 12/31/12 10:10 AM

You're right. My instructions were abbreviated; I hate to scare someone away with too many details. In fact, my favorite way to do those seams is to trim one of them to 1/4"-5/16" before I stitch it.

------
“Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann.

Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?

Matthew 25:40 (New International Version)
The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'



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