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Which seam technique is used on Men's RTW shirts?
DOGLOVER389 Advanced Beginner Member since 1/11/12 Posts: 97	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 12/29/12 4:02 PM Hi All, I am looking at some of my RTW shirts and cannot figure out which seam technique is used on the side and sleeve seams. I know it is a continuous seam, but it neither seems to be a French nor Flat Felled seam. Both of those seams leave a single line of stitching and teh only visible stitching on the RTW garments is done with a twin needle. The raw edges are completely enclosed, but I cannot envision how to do that without first basting the seams, which I doubt they do during the construction of hte RTW garments. Can anyone tell me which technique is used on those seams, or how to do it? Many thanx. DogLover389 ------ Cut my teeth on a Kenmore 117.58 http://pages.sewing-machine-manuals.com/173/PictPage/1922064294.html Singer Merritt 9612
Scheri   Advanced Beginner AB CANADA Member since 7/13/10 Posts: 251	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 12/30/12 2:43 AM They would be flat felled seams. if you are interested craftsy.com has a great course with Pam Howard on Tailored Shirts. ------ Scheri Manson Edmonton, AB CANADA
SandiMacD   Intermediate FL USA Member since 2/8/09 Posts: 1041	Login to reply to this post Like this post Subject: Which seam technique is used on Mens RTW shirts? Date: 12/30/12 4:26 AM I'm taking her class. She is very meticulous about every detail. ------ re-living my youth through sewing...
Karla Kizer   Advanced FL USA Member since 4/8/02 Posts: 6970	Login to reply to this post In reply to DOGLOVER389 << Like this post Date: 12/30/12 6:46 AM If you use a flat-felled seam, start by stitching the seam line with the wrong sides of the fabric together. That stitching line will, of course, be visible. Then, when the seam allowance is folded and pressed on the outside of the garment, you'll edgestitch that fold in place and that's the second line of visible stitching. ------ “Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann. Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket? Matthew 25:40 (New International Version) The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'
Vireya Intermediate AUSTRALIA Member since 12/10/05 Posts: 781	Login to reply to this post Like this post Subject: Which seam technique is used on Mens RTW shirts? Date: 12/30/12 5:42 PM Industrial processes don't involve any basting because they have special felling machines which do all the folding of edges and stitching all in one pass. Reproducing the effect at home takes more time and effort as Karla has described.
andye   Beginner VA USA Member since 5/9/09 Posts: 1529	Login to reply to this post Like this post Date: 12/30/12 7:23 PM Better shirts are made using a single needle tailoring process that still involves two passes with the needle. Industrial machines do have better quality feet and attachments, and have enough pressure that pins are not required, but some of this can be imitated by home sewers. see this thread for more details -- Edited on 12/30/12 7:26 PM --
dscheidt Member since 6/8/09 Posts: 250	Login to reply to this post In reply to Karla Kizer << Like this post Date: 12/30/12 10:48 PM Quote: Karla Kizer If you use a flat-felled seam, start by stitching the seam line with the wrong sides of the fabric together. That stitching line will, of course, be visible. Then, when the seam allowance is folded and pressed on the outside of the garment, you'll edgestitch that fold in place and that's the second line of visible stitching. That depends on the effect you want. Many of my best quality shirts are done with a single needle machine, with two passes, same as you'd do at home, of those, many have at least some of the seams done with right sides together, and so only one line of visible stitching. I'd want two lines of stitching on something where I want the stitching to be noticed, but not something where it's disappearing.
Miss Fairchild   Advanced USA Member since 8/24/02 Posts: 6985	Login to reply to this post In reply to dscheidt << Like this post Date: 12/31/12 8:10 AM Karla's right on this, but she didn't mention you trim one of the seam allowances very close to the stitching, then fold the larger seam allowance over. The first seam allowance will roll toward the front to be visible. I do alterations for a men's store and this is how I do it, and I have to do it in two passes. ------ "We don't impose our rhythm on Nature. The key is to respect and live within Her." Jean-Charles Boisset, Winemaker "And no, now that you asked, I didn't enjoy that play one bit, and I'd like a refund" Signed, Mrs. Lincoln My Etsy shop: auntmaymesattic My blog: auntmaymesattic.wordpress.com Avatar: First place award for jacket at county fair
Karla Kizer   Advanced FL USA Member since 4/8/02 Posts: 6970	Login to reply to this post In reply to Miss Fairchild << Like this post Date: 12/31/12 10:10 AM You're right. My instructions were abbreviated; I hate to scare someone away with too many details. In fact, my favorite way to do those seams is to trim one of them to 1/4"-5/16" before I stitch it. ------ “Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and it annoys the pig.” -Robert Heinlein and Ann's father. Thanks for the reminder, Ann. Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket? Matthew 25:40 (New International Version) The King will reply, 'I tell you the truth, whatever you did for one of the least of these brothers of mine, you did for me.'

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