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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > how do I finish designing this jacket?

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how do I finish designing this jacket?
thoughts please
rmusic1
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rmusic1
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Date: 12/29/12 4:10 PM

I'm making simplicity 3833. I've made it before and it worked very well.

This version is in wool. I'm trying out colour blocking for the first time, and am making a jacket with left over fabric by using duplicate bodice pieces and the sleeve option (which I am not using on the dress itself).

I haven't got enough fabric to create a proper hem allowance (just 1.5cm) for the jacket. Both the jacket and dress will be lined.

Any thoughts please? its also the first time I have ever tried to make something by reworking pattern pieces to create something new (i.e. a jacket out of a dress).

One last question, do you think the colour blocking works? am feeling all of a sudden a bit less confident! I am suddenly struck by the resemblance to a character in alice in wonderland (can you guess which one?).

detailed photos can be seen here on my blog
-- Edited on 12/29/12 4:19 PM --

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 12/29/12 5:04 PM

I think the red/black colorblocking on the dress is DARLING (the four quadrants). My first instinct is to make the jacket from a solid color--probably the black (and then lining it with something red)--but if I'm reading correctly, you don't have enough fabric for that?

I can't mentally translate centimeters, but you should be able to fudge that hem allowance by lining all the way to the hem (so all you need is the seam allowance), or by facing the hem so you have a little extra.
-- Edited on 12/29/12 5:09 PM --

------
~Gem in the prairie

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 12/29/12 5:21 PM

thanks stirwatersblue for the vote of confidence. You're right, there's not enough fabric for the jacket to be entirely made out of black. However, fear not! the lining will be equally interesting as I intend to colour block this too. I only decided on making the jacket after getting home.

Of course this meant I didnt have enough lining for the dress AND jacket. So back I went to get more lining, accept they didnt have any more of it in that colour (sale stand). So I got the same type, but in another shade. So the lining will be dark green and midnight blue colour blocking.

So more fun with cutting out (hopefully will do a better job of it then the first time round!!). I decided on making the jacket a duplicate of the dress bodice, so it wont stand out too much.

Oh, one last thing I forgot to mention in my first post. The lovely owner of the shop where I bought my fabric advised me to add 5mm to the seam allowance at the shoulders for the jacket bodice pieces, add a similar amount to the tops of the sleeve heads and slightly widen the side seams near the waist in order generate more wearing ease.

It made sense, as the dress underneath will take up a little room. So have factored this in already.

rmusic1
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rmusic1
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 12/30/12 3:40 PM

one latest thought in design development. My mother has suggested adding a black ribbon trim to the hem of both bodice and sleeves, plus round the neck. I think this could help tie it all in together. What do you think?

stirwatersblue
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stirwatersblue
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Date: 1/1/13 12:44 PM

On the jacket or the dress? I say "yea" for the jacket, and "nay" for the dress.

------
~Gem in the prairie

rmusic1
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In reply to stirwatersblue <<


Date: 1/2/13 3:57 PM

I'd planned on adding it to the jacket - and leaving the dress alone! if you'd like to see how it's going I've got a review in progress here.

Fannie Rebecca
Fannie Rebecca  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/25/13 1:42 PM

One option is to make a hem facing for the inside of the jacket. This would give the hem the proper weight to fall nicely.

rmusic1
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In reply to Fannie Rebecca <<
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Date: 1/25/13 1:48 PM

hi Fannie Rebecca

Thank you for the option - I'm afraid the jacket is finished now, but I will bear it in mind for the future. In the end I used a ribbon and carefully edge stitched it to cover the edge of the jacket.

Usually I would agree with the need to make sure the hem weight was there to ensure it hangs properly. But due to the bulk caused by the fabric (two layers of felted type wool, if you include the dress itself) I wanted to minimise adding any more.

Its worked out really well, and feels very comfortable to wear. I have just the right amount of ease and the frog closure (a first) adds a really nice finishing touch.

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