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Forum > Fitting Woes > Kimono Sleeve Bodice ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Kimono Sleeve Bodice
Need some opinions!
pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
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Date: 12/31/12 10:02 PM

Hi!
I'm trying to fit Vintage Simplicity 3831. I've never made a kimono sleeved garment before so I'm not really sure what to expect in terms of fit.
I'm trying not to be too picky lol, but I thought I'd see what the experts had to say.
I've cut off the seam allowance so it should be at my waist level. (I've already taken some length out- wonder if it's too short now, but the skirt might pull it down enough..)

I'm planning to try doing a SBA too.




I realise kimono sleeves do have wrinkles, but how are these looking? They seem extra scrunchy in the back. I'm pretty open to just leaving it but then again if anything can be improved I might as well!

It also feels a little tight in the shoulders so I'm thinking of letting out the seam at the top of the sleeve.

Any feedback very much appreciated!
Thank you :)


-- Edited on 12/31/12 10:03 PM --

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I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

Quickie
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Quickie
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Date: 1/1/13 4:54 AM

You are well on your way fitting this . In my views it is a bit snug under your arms. Can you lift them? Try to get just a litle bit more room inthe back and the seam of thesleeve in the underarm

cocosloft
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Date: 1/1/13 2:15 PM

Pretty pattern. You might check your bust apex, it looks a bit high on your muslin. So both your front and side darts are pointing a little too high. But otherwise the bust/bodice fit seems fine. Also, I agree, once you add in seams, your front bodice is likely to come up short. If you make these adjustments and deepen the armhole/sleeve (per Quickie above) you would be in good shape to do another muslin for fitting :-)

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Coco

Elcue
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Date: 1/1/13 2:25 PM

I was taught to move the dart point 1 1/2 to 2" from the true apex.


a7yrstitch
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Date: 1/1/13 2:50 PM

I had intended to comment on the bust dart placement also. I just posted a link to an excellent tutorial by Annie O'Connor in this thread:

Sewing Tips and Techniques
Darts for Shaping, Darts for Fitting

She thoroughly explains how to find the bust tip, the bust circle and where to end the bust darts. I wish you were able to view the program that led me to find the online tutorial.

I seem to remember your having moved your back darts on a previous garment so I think that you will find the entire tutorial to be interesting.

Getting those front darts relocated will also make a difference in what happens when you lift your arms as far as the garment riding up and not falling back in place naturally. So good placement there will affect the fit and function at the underarm area also.

Looking forward to following your progress. It is a joy to follow your sewing adventures.



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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

pinkcatflower
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pinkcatflower
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Date: 1/1/13 2:55 PM

Yes, I noticed the darts were a bit high. I'll be moving them down. Hopefully I can apply some changes today and come up with an update sometime soon.
Still looking forward to hearing any more suggestions from anyone! Please do offer any insights you can :)
Thanks for the help you guys!

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I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

a7yrstitch
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Date: 1/1/13 5:09 PM

Another thought.....

Did you stitch in the darts exactly as shown on the pattern?

If so, could it be possible that your base of neck to top of bust measurement is slightly longer than the pattern was 'averaged' (designed) for?

If you feel that the underarm area is snug and the bust darts as given on the pattern are high, then it is worth considering adding length in the upper chest area.

Even if a waist length is average, the proportions of the length can be distributed differently from one person to the next.

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I have no idea what Apple thought I was saying so be a Peach and credit anything bizarre to auto correct.

SVN
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Date: 1/1/13 6:26 PM

If you need to do narrow shoulder adjustment on set-it sleeve bodices than you will probably need that here, too. That should remove some of the wrinkles, although this style is wrinkly, no getting away from it (except you minimize it the drapier the fabric you use).
good luck.

GlButterfly

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Date: 1/1/13 7:56 PM

True, but if small busted, they can be closer than that.

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That's Gl = for Gloria, not G. I.

pinkcatflower
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Date: 1/6/13 4:23 AM

Well, here is my second one, after a few tweaks.
The small bust adjustment I did on the pattern was kinda weird too since there's no armscye to use as a pivot point. Hard to explain but I kinda just used the neckline as the pivot instead of the armscye...I thought it worked actually, even though it was probably "wrong". Then moving the darts after sewing it up made it look kinda funky, lol, with a bit of wrinkling at the top of the waist darts...
Oh, so many wrinkles to ponder...

Here it is before moving the bust darts:


After moving:


A view of the back:


Now, the back. I noticed that it felt tight and restricting in the shoulders. I then noticed in the photos that there are tightness wrinkles emanating from the top of my shoulder blades! I'm thinking that's the problem zone...
Hmm, now what kind of pattern alteration is required here? I've never done that before! And I can picture the kimono sleeves making it harder too... Eep!

So, any diagnoses on the myriad wrinkles we are looking at here? lol.
Oh and I also lowered the armhole on ONE side. Which I realised was a bit dumb because my shoulders are asymmetric hence hard to compare. lol. For the record, the lower armhole is on my left.

------
I have a new blog: makingitwell.blogspot.com
I'd love for you to visit :)

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