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Forum > Fitting Woes > French darts in a knit ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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French darts in a knit
Silhouette pattern 195
Sewandwrite
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Sewandwrite  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/1/13 5:35 PM

Good grief, what's going on with the tips of the darts?



I lengthened the pattern above the bust on the "lengthen or shorten here" line because in my muslin, those darts came up over my bust and looked very strange. Plus, the shirt was too short.

The ends of the darts in this iteration are so weird. They are pressed open.

I am really discouraged -- the fit of this seems pretty cruddy.

I bought this pattern after taking Peggy Sager's class on the perfect T-shirt at a sewing expo and used the size she recommended. I've spent hours tweaking the shoulders, drawing in a new neckline, lengthening the thing (on the lengthen/shorten here line an at the bottom) and walking my seamlines. I'm thinking it was a boondoggle.




-- Edited on 1/1/13 5:41 PM --

Marilly
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Date: 1/1/13 6:55 PM

Offhand, I'd say the dart points are dimpling because they are not resting on any of the bust surface. Most bust darts need to end within 1 -1.5 in. of the bust apex, depending on your cup size, bust shape, fabric and intended garment fit. If this were a regular waist dart I'd say it's ending too low below your apex by a good .75 or so. I admit I have never used a french dart but I'd think they'd follow a similar principle.
I am impressed how smooth they seem to be despite this being a knit. Did you interface them with fusi- knit? Also, how does this look from the side? I've never seen a french dart on a 'real' person clearly in a side view.
The shoulder/neck fit does look at bit off, but it seems the pattern is currently too narrow for one of your shoulders. I have this too and I generally just fit the more prominent in the pattern and fudge the seams for the other when I sew it. If it's a print I don't even bother with that.
Shel

Kemish
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Date: 1/2/13 11:52 AM

I would recommend sending this picture to Peggy Sagers at Silhouette patterns and asking her, especially since you took her T-shirt class and with a picture she could probably provide you some excellent feed back and advice on how to modify your shirt, too.

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Kemish

Quickie
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Quickie
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Date: 1/2/13 1:11 PM

Perhaps the knit that the pattern was designed for was a bit more stable than yours. I think darts in knits are always a bit tricky. For myself I try to avoid them.
Try to exersise on a scrap if you can succeed when the very last part of the dart near the top bends already towards the fold and goes on almost parallel to that fold
Your neckline is a bit snug
-- Edited on 1/2/13 1:12 PM --

wendyrb
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In reply to Sewandwrite <<
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Date: 1/2/13 1:15 PM

Peggy has responded quickly every time I've emailed her. You've invested time, effort and money with her and her products; you deserve Peggy's help in resolving you fit to your satisfaction.

For dart fitting, I do not sew them for a 1st fitting; I drape them into shape for my body. I pay special attention to the angle, shape- straight or more curved to cup he bust and the stopping point within he bust circle. I do a FBA, so often I'm about 2" from the apex.

Since this is a French Dart, I'm guessing the dart fold has been cut out for a good part of the stitch line. My redrawing idea may not suit this situation. If I were frustrated enough, I'd call this a fit muslin and hack it up till it looked good. Should a hole appear from moving the dart around, I'd patch it with scrap of your knit. All the effort now means this will looking messed up, but you can a

Let us know about what Peggy advises. We can all learn with you.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

wendyrb
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Date: 1/2/13 1:20 PM

Oops, touched Post a moment too soon on my phone. Keep going and apply all you've learned on this project to your next garment. Then tweak that and after a few, you'll have a fabulous TNT.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

Nancy K
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Date: 1/2/13 3:49 PM

Its the way you've sewn the dart. The end has to really be sewn off the fabric. You can try starting at the tip and sewing back. BTW the dart isn't open all the way to the tip. When you press the end of the dart use a lift and press motion and press it over a ham.

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Elona
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In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 1/2/13 4:11 PM

Well, I first (ever so helpfully) gave you tips for sewing a standard dart--so not to the point!

However, just a little past halfway down

this page, are photo instructions for sewing a French dart. You may already be doing all this, however, so the key might just be (a) the fabric, and (b) asking Peggy for advice. As has been noted, she's good about getting back to your questions.
-- Edited on 1/2/13 8:30 PM --

Sewandwrite
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In reply to wendyrb <<
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Date: 1/2/13 4:55 PM

Quote: wendyrb
Peggy has responded quickly every time I've emailed her. You've invested time, effort and money with her and her products; you deserve Peggy's help in resolving you fit to your satisfaction.


Let us know about what Peggy advises. We can all learn with you.

This is the third iteration of this pattern for me. That's why I used my good (and very stretchy) fabric. Interesting, in the 2nd muslin, in a cotton knit with little stretch, the sewed dart didn't look so bad -- it just ended at the point of the bust (which I dislike). Even the neckline looked better.

Nancy K, when you say "The end has to really be sewn off the fabric" I'm confused. There is a dot at the end of the dart and I sewed right to it and off the fabric. I even pressed the dart open over a ham. But the very end is indeed closed because it ends 3/8" into the fabric from the end of the cut edges of the dart. Should I slash this open?

Last night, the only rational solution I could come up with was that I need to stop trying to sew a garment that fits me. I definitely need to lower my frustration level. After 3 years of online & expo classes, books, and multiple tries on a t-shirt and a simple skirt, I have nothing but wadders. This constant failure has become such negative energy. I've applied my mistakes, I've refined patterns, sought hard to learn more -- but I obviously lack some key tools (not sure what's missing) for success.

I'm in a bit of shock over the suggestion of contacting Peggy -- the idea had never occurred to me. But you're right, I have invested time, effort and money in her and her products. How empowering! Thank you wendyrb and Kemish.

I'm willing to give it a try and let you know what Peggy advises.


diane s
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Date: 1/2/13 7:34 PM

Please let us know what Peggys says. I would pull the top up a little and see how it looks if the darts are highter.
One of the problems with knits, is that each one behaves a little differently,the stretch will vary from knit to knit. Some have 1 way stretch while others have 2 way. I always allow extra SA, even with a T&T pattern and baste together first. A thin fabric will make the dart lower while something thicker might raise it a little.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

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