Sewing Patterns, Pattern Review, Sewing Classes, Sewing Machines and Sewing Machine Reviews!
Platinum Sponsor: Stylish Fabric
Over 20,000 of high quality reorderable fabric

[SIGNUP - FREE Membership & 1 FREE Sewing Lesson ]
[Sewing Classes|Shopping Bag Your Shopping Bag|Login|Help]
Sewing Review and Pattern Reviews Sewing Knowledge Base Sewing Patterns Sewing Classes & Sewing Lessons Sewing Machine & Embroidery Machinery Sewing Message Boards Sewing merchants Blog Help/FAQ About Pattern Review
Enter your e-mail address:




Advanced Search
Tags
New to PR?
Sewing Machines
Compare Sewing Machines
Sewing Machine & Serger Reviews
Embroidery Machines
Sewing Reviews
Sewing Patterns
Review Gallery
Sewing Books
Sewing Supplies
Sewing Websites
Sewing Stores
Sewing Class Reviews
Sewing Expo Reviews
Sewing Tips & Techniques
Sewing Podcasts
NEW!Fabric Glossary
Sewing Review Requests Add a Review Request
Your Account
Edit Profile
My Page
Favorites
Wish List
Pattern Catalog
Notifications
Friends of PR
Join Friends of PR
Find a member
Deal Corner
Photo Album
Calendar
Chat Room
Chat Schedule
Chat Transcripts
Sewing Classifieds
Add a Classified
Sewing Contests
enter contest
contest report
contest gallery
Favorite Links
reviews with comments
merchant gallery
article archive
newsletter archive
Craft Resources
contact info
shipping rates
returns & refunds
testimonials

Platinum Sponsor - Stylish Fabric
Stylish Fabric
You are not logged in. Login here.



Message Board > Fitting Woes > French darts in a knit ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
Go to Page:
French darts in a knit
Silhouette pattern 195
Sewandwrite
star
Sewandwrite
Advanced Beginner
MD USA
Member since 5/16/08
Posts: 815
Login to reply to this post

Date: 1/1/13 5:35 PM

Good grief, what's going on with the tips of the darts?



I lengthened the pattern above the bust on the "lengthen or shorten here" line because in my muslin, those darts came up over my bust and looked very strange. Plus, the shirt was too short.

The ends of the darts in this iteration are so weird. They are pressed open.

I am really discouraged -- the fit of this seems pretty cruddy.

I bought this pattern after taking Peggy Sager's class on the perfect T-shirt at a sewing expo and used the size she recommended. I've spent hours tweaking the shoulders, drawing in a new neckline, lengthening the thing (on the lengthen/shorten here line an at the bottom) and walking my seamlines. I'm thinking it was a boondoggle.




-- Edited on 1/1/13 5:41 PM --

Marilly
Marilly
Advanced Beginner
OR USA
Member since 7/9/06
Posts: 696
Login to reply to this post

Date: 1/1/13 6:55 PM

Offhand, I'd say the dart points are dimpling because they are not resting on any of the bust surface. Most bust darts need to end within 1 -1.5 in. of the bust apex, depending on your cup size, bust shape, fabric and intended garment fit. If this were a regular waist dart I'd say it's ending too low below your apex by a good .75 or so. I admit I have never used a french dart but I'd think they'd follow a similar principle.
I am impressed how smooth they seem to be despite this being a knit. Did you interface them with fusi- knit? Also, how does this look from the side? I've never seen a french dart on a 'real' person clearly in a side view.
The shoulder/neck fit does look at bit off, but it seems the pattern is currently too narrow for one of your shoulders. I have this too and I generally just fit the more prominent in the pattern and fudge the seams for the other when I sew it. If it's a print I don't even bother with that.
Shel

Kemish
star
Kemish  Friend of PR
Intermediate
CA USA
Member since 4/24/06
Posts: 277
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 5 members like this.
Date: 1/2/13 11:52 AM

I would recommend sending this picture to Peggy Sagers at Silhouette patterns and asking her, especially since you took her T-shirt class and with a picture she could probably provide you some excellent feed back and advice on how to modify your shirt, too.

------
Kemish

Quickie
star
Quickie
NETHERLANDS
Member since 10/8/10
Posts: 592
Login to reply to this post

Date: 1/2/13 1:11 PM

Perhaps the knit that the pattern was designed for was a bit more stable than yours. I think darts in knits are always a bit tricky. For myself I try to avoid them.
Try to exersise on a scrap if you can succeed when the very last part of the dart near the top bends already towards the fold and goes on almost parallel to that fold
Your neckline is a bit snug
-- Edited on 1/2/13 1:12 PM --

wendyrb
wendyrb  Friend of PR
Advanced
CA
Member since 12/30/11
Posts: 2811
online now


Going to PR Weekend Austin!
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Sewandwrite <<
thumbsup 3 members like this.


Date: 1/2/13 1:15 PM

Peggy has responded quickly every time I've emailed her. You've invested time, effort and money with her and her products; you deserve Peggy's help in resolving you fit to your satisfaction.

For dart fitting, I do not sew them for a 1st fitting; I drape them into shape for my body. I pay special attention to the angle, shape- straight or more curved to cup he bust and the stopping point within he bust circle. I do a FBA, so often I'm about 2" from the apex.

Since this is a French Dart, I'm guessing the dart fold has been cut out for a good part of the stitch line. My redrawing idea may not suit this situation. If I were frustrated enough, I'd call this a fit muslin and hack it up till it looked good. Should a hole appear from moving the dart around, I'd patch it with scrap of your knit. All the effort now means this will looking messed up, but you can a

Let us know about what Peggy advises. We can all learn with you.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

wendyrb
wendyrb  Friend of PR
Advanced
CA
Member since 12/30/11
Posts: 2811
online now


Going to PR Weekend Austin!
Login to reply to this post

thumbsup 2 members like this.
Date: 1/2/13 1:20 PM

Oops, touched Post a moment too soon on my phone. Keep going and apply all you've learned on this project to your next garment. Then tweak that and after a few, you'll have a fabulous TNT.

------
Always keep your words soft and sweet, just in case you have to eat them. Andy Rooney

Pfonzie- my honey Pfaff Creative Performance, Bernina 930 and 830, Evolution serger.

Nancy K
starstarstar
Nancy K
Advanced
NY USA
Member since 12/28/04
Posts: 8080
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Sewandwrite <<
thumbsup 4 members like this.


Date: 1/2/13 3:49 PM

Its the way you've sewn the dart. The end has to really be sewn off the fabric. You can try starting at the tip and sewing back. BTW the dart isn't open all the way to the tip. When you press the end of the dart use a lift and press motion and press it over a ham.

------
www.nancyksews.blogspot.com

Elona
star
Elona  Friend of PR
Advanced
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 8132
Login to reply to this post

In reply to Nancy K <<


Date: 1/2/13 4:11 PM

Well, I first (ever so helpfully) gave you tips for sewing a standard dart--so not to the point!

However, just a little past halfway down

this page, are photo instructions for sewing a French dart. You may already be doing all this, however, so the key might just be (a) the fabric, and (b) asking Peggy for advice. As has been noted, she's good about getting back to your questions.
-- Edited on 1/2/13 8:30 PM --

Sewandwrite
star
Sewandwrite
Advanced Beginner
MD USA
Member since 5/16/08
Posts: 815
Login to reply to this post

In reply to wendyrb <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 1/2/13 4:55 PM

Quote: wendyrb
Peggy has responded quickly every time I've emailed her. You've invested time, effort and money with her and her products; you deserve Peggy's help in resolving you fit to your satisfaction.


Let us know about what Peggy advises. We can all learn with you.

This is the third iteration of this pattern for me. That's why I used my good (and very stretchy) fabric. Interesting, in the 2nd muslin, in a cotton knit with little stretch, the sewed dart didn't look so bad -- it just ended at the point of the bust (which I dislike). Even the neckline looked better.

Nancy K, when you say "The end has to really be sewn off the fabric" I'm confused. There is a dot at the end of the dart and I sewed right to it and off the fabric. I even pressed the dart open over a ham. But the very end is indeed closed because it ends 3/8" into the fabric from the end of the cut edges of the dart. Should I slash this open?

Last night, the only rational solution I could come up with was that I need to stop trying to sew a garment that fits me. I definitely need to lower my frustration level. After 3 years of online & expo classes, books, and multiple tries on a t-shirt and a simple skirt, I have nothing but wadders. This constant failure has become such negative energy. I've applied my mistakes, I've refined patterns, sought hard to learn more -- but I obviously lack some key tools (not sure what's missing) for success.

I'm in a bit of shock over the suggestion of contacting Peggy -- the idea had never occurred to me. But you're right, I have invested time, effort and money in her and her products. How empowering! Thank you wendyrb and Kemish.

I'm willing to give it a try and let you know what Peggy advises.


diane s
star
diane s  Friend of PR
Intermediate
OR USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 4529
Login to reply to this post

Date: 1/2/13 7:34 PM

Please let us know what Peggys says. I would pull the top up a little and see how it looks if the darts are highter.
One of the problems with knits, is that each one behaves a little differently,the stretch will vary from knit to knit. Some have 1 way stretch while others have 2 way. I always allow extra SA, even with a T&T pattern and baste together first. A thin fabric will make the dart lower while something thicker might raise it a little.

------
My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

Go to Page:
Please LOGIN or Join PatternReview
printable version Printable Version

* Advertising and soliciting is strictly prohibited on PatternReview.com. If you find a post which is not in agreement with our Terms and Conditions, please click on the Report Post button to report it. Fitting Woes >> French darts in a knit

Merchants on PR
Fitz Like a Glove Ironing Board Cover
Made In Australia
Deals!
SewBaby
Unique Sewing Patterns
Deals!
Budo Bear Designs
Asian Designs
Web site
Patterns from the Past
vintage sewing patterns
Deals!
Elliott Berman Textiles
Fabrics for Greater Ideas
Deals!

Copyright © 2014 PatternReview.com® , OSATech, Inc. All rights reserved.
Conditions of Use | Posting Guidelines | Privacy Policy | Contact Us
Online Sewing Classes
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket
Fee: $29.00
(Regular $49.00)
Sew a Designer Unlined Jacket

Online Sewing Classes
Sewing Basics
Fee: $14.99
(Regular $14.99)
Sewing Basics

Vogue Patterns 8712 misses pants
photo
Review by acmena on 4/17/14
Read Review

Liesl + Co. Men's Metro Shirt Digital Pattern
Liesl + Co. Men's Metro Shirt Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $8.95
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Cake Patterns Hummingbird Top Digital Pattern
Cake Patterns Hummingbird Top Digital Pattern

Details
Price: $9.50
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Simplicity 3536 6 made easy
photo
Review by Mary W on 11/24/07
Read Review

Favorite Things Sleep Well Pattern
Favorite Things Sleep Well Pattern

Details
Price: $14.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

J Stern Designs Top with two collars and a Peplum Pattern
J Stern Designs Top with two collars and a Peplum Pattern

Details
Price: $20.00
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Kwik Sew 3956 Pattern
Kwik Sew 3956 Pattern

Details
Price: $11.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Kwik Sew 3925 Pattern
Kwik Sew 3925 Pattern

Details
Price: $11.99
Add to Bag Add to Bag

Subscribe to PR Message Board Feed Subscribe to the PR Message Board Feed Add to My Yahoo! Subscribe at NewsGator Online Subscribe at Bloglines Add to MyMSN