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Message Board > Beginner's Forum > Pattern pieces individual sizing chart ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Pattern pieces individual sizing chart
finished garment sizes on pattern piece
charid dawn
charid dawn
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Member since 1/3/13
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Date: 1/5/13 11:51 PM

I thought after messing up my first sewing project (twice) and doing some research that I understood the measurements a little bit better for patterns. I started a new project. A flowing top. The front pattern piece (piece #1) had print on it for the finished garment measurements. It said finished garment measurements for bust size 8 - 35.5". Then it listed the other sizes. Below that it said ease allowance 4".

My bust is only 34 so whether I followed the sizing on the package, which it says size 8 is 31.5", or the sizing on the pattern piece, the top should have fit, instead it came out skin tight (at the bust and right beneath the bust, the rest was modified for a size 12 so it's ok, not flowing though). I don't understand why or how I'm supposed to know what size to go with to get the desired results. It's New Look 6107, view B.

-- Edited on 1/5/13 11:59 PM --
-- Edited on 1/6/13 0:01 AM --

Red Dragon
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Red Dragon
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Date: 1/6/13 0:33 AM

View B looks to be semi fitted with darts, not loose so it would need 4" of ease to allow you to move freely and to skim over the body. Ease comes in different types - wearing ease, which allows you to move, and design ease, which is what determines whether the garment is fitted (body hugging), semi fitted (body skimming), and so on looser and looser.
With a bust measurement of 34", I would recommend starting with a 12 and adjusting fit from there, if needed. The measurements on the envelope back are what you use to match your measurements against, so you go with whichever is closest. Hope that helps.

------
Tracy, Canberra

Janome 7700QCP, Janome 4618QC, Husky S25 overlock/coverstitch

petro
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Date: 1/6/13 2:57 AM

A finished bust measurement of 35.5 will feel pretty tight on bust 34 unless the fabric and the style are for a stretch fabric. The four inches of ease allowed on the bust measurement takes care of the room you need to expand the chest in breathing and move your arms and shoulders. Put another way, 35.5 with four inches of ease, is designed for bust size 31.5.

SandiMacD
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SandiMacD  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/6/13 1:43 PM

A helpful thing to know is how to measure the flat pattern and compare it to your body's measurements and what your style preference is.

Your bust measurement is a circle. Put on a blouse or top- whatever you wear and like the fit of. Notice where the side seams fall, they should be midway under your arms.
Now take it off and measure that item at the bust line from seam to seam on the front and again on the back. Now remeasure yourself across the back and across the bust area from side to side. They are rarely equal, one half takes up more of the diameter than the other. This will give you some idea of how much ease in the front and back areas that you like in different styles.

You can do the same with that flat pattern. They don't all end up being what the envelope states.
If you measure the pattern front half (and double it) from the seam lines you can compare that to your RTW and your own measurements. Then you will have a better idea of which cutting lines to follow on the pattern. Do the same for the back.
For dresses, do everything above at the widest area of your hip to find the cutting line size.

------
sewing brings joy and meaning to my life...

charid dawn
charid dawn
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In reply to charid dawn <<


Date: 1/6/13 2:54 PM

I got it. Basically, if you measure around your bust, waist, and hips and then use those measurements to make a shirt to those exact measurements then at the bust, waist, and hip it's going to be form fitting... unless you add ease. Which this pattern did, but I took it out for some reason. It all makes sense. Thank you guys so much.

charid dawn
charid dawn
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In reply to SandiMacD <<


Date: 1/6/13 3:04 PM

Quote: SandiMacD
A helpful thing to know is how to measure the flat pattern and compare it to your body's measurements and what your style preference is.



Your bust measurement is a circle. Put on a blouse or top- whatever you wear and like the fit of. Notice where the side seams fall, they should be midway under your arms.

Now take it off and measure that item at the bust line from seam to seam on the front and again on the back. Now remeasure yourself across the back and across the bust area from side to side. They are rarely equal, one half takes up more of the diameter than the other. This will give you some idea of how much ease in the front and back areas that you like in different styles.



You can do the same with that flat pattern. They don't all end up being what the envelope states.

If you measure the pattern front half (and double it) from the seam lines you can compare that to your RTW and your own measurements. Then you will have a better idea of which cutting lines to follow on the pattern. Do the same for the back.

For dresses, do everything above at the widest area of your hip to find the cutting line size.

Great ideas. Thank you.
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