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Message Board > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > FBA tips

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FBA tips
Making for a GG bust
rag doll
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rag doll  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/13/13 1:53 AM

Hi, I'm making Simplicity 2369 and Simplicity 2146. I do an Fba regularly for myself but am a DD.

The lady that I'm making these two dresses for needs a dress size 18 (I think).. She measures 100cm high bust and 111 full bust and wears a GG bra.

I have printed off Debbie Cooks' tutorials on an FBA raglan and an FBA armhole princess and plan to make this my starting point.

Is there any pearls of wisdom before I get started? I'm a bit nervous about tackling this project.

Thanks
Sue

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Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

KiwiWendy
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Date: 1/13/13 6:30 AM

Do a mock up to make sure it fits before cutting the real thing ... especially as you've not done the GG FBA before.

As someone who's cuppage is past GG, I find more than 1 dart to be the best fit for my shape (side & underbust, or armscye & underbust). Don't be surprised if the front armscye shape is hooked more than a J shape, it's what it's like on the body that works. On that train of thought I had to get used to the fronts not looking as hanger pretty as non-FBA tops but the hanger is a *lot* flatter than me

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Sydney, Australia

meleliza
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Date: 1/15/13 8:25 PM

Very true about looking wired on the hanger or in the flat pattern. Also, just because the bra size is GG doesn't mean the pattern cup size would be GG. Go by her body measurements not bra size. Compare high bust to full bust first and see how much of a difference that makes. Then, do a tissue fit for an estimate. See how much more room she needs to make the pattern centre front match the bodys center front and use that as a guide for the fba. When the cup size gets large you may have to get creative such as using more than one dart suggested above or adding to the center front of the pattern, etc.

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Melanie

diane s
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diane s  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/18/13 6:09 PM

Everything that meleliza says, and if using a knit, the adjustment isn't as large as in a woven.
I wear a large cup size and start with size 10 (high bust). My fba is usually 1/2 to 1". It's different in every pattern.

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My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

Silk Challis
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Date: 1/19/13 1:08 PM

You may want to have a look at the Y FBA described on Fit for real people. It distorts the pattern less than the regular FBA.

rag doll
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In reply to Silk Challis <<


Date: 1/20/13 5:48 AM

thankyou for that. Is it possible to describe it? I have an earlier edition of FFRP and it isn't in this one.

From what I have heard the Y fba is a cut from the shoulder and ??? not sure what next. Do you make the second cut either at the armhole or dart (under arm) area? I'm considring buying the latest addition but I'm not sure how much more info is in it. Wouldn't it be great if you could purchase a suppliment to the book (edition) that you already own?

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Quickie
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Date: 1/20/13 6:09 AM

Such an update is available. Go to the website

rag doll
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In reply to Quickie <<


Date: 1/21/13 7:57 AM

many thanks. I'll have a look!

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Brother QC1000, Brother PQ1500, Bernina Virtuosa 160, Pfaff (old), Babylock BLCS, Bernette 1100D, Bernette 334DS

Silk Challis
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In reply to rag doll <<
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Date: 1/21/13 2:03 PM

Quote: rag doll
thankyou for that. Is it possible to describe it? I have an earlier edition of FFRP and it isn't in this one.



From what I have heard the Y fba is a cut from the shoulder and ??? not sure what next. Do you make the second cut either at the armhole or dart (under arm) area? I'm considring buying the latest addition but I'm not sure how much more info is in it. Wouldn't it be great if you could purchase a suppliment to the book (edition) that you already own?

* Mark the first cutting line from the waist to the apex and then from the apex to the armscye as usual.

* Then mark another line from the apex to the shoulder. You should be able to see the Y shape which give the name to this adjustment at this stage.

* Mark the cutting line from the side to the apex as per usual.

* Cut along the line from the waist to the shoulder and slash adding part of the required fullness as you would normally do. Do not add too much or you will distort the shoulder area too much.

* Cut along the line from the apex to the armscye and add the remaining width.

* Cut along the line from the side to the apex and bring the vertical edges parallel as per usual.

* Straighten the shoulder line.

* Proceed lengthening the center front as per usual.


Hope it makes sense.


--- Edited to add a link to a blog where there are pictures:
blog with pictures
-- Edited on 1/21/13 2:46 PM --
Jodi B.
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Date: 1/21/13 2:55 PM

That's a fabulous link. Thanks so much!

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