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Message Board > Bridal and Formalwear Sewing > I need help with a strapless bodice ( Moderated by MissCelie)

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I need help with a strapless bodice
chibialex
chibialex
Member since 1/8/13
Posts: 2
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Date: 1/13/13 5:36 PM

I relatively new to sewing and could use some help with a strapless bodice dress. i lengthen the bodice from Mcall's M5850.
I put some boning in front and on the side. and took it in but there still a big bubble of fabric in the back





When I don't have the skirt on that moves to the sides when I put the bodice in the elastic waisted skirt I plain to sew to it.





I really don't know if i need to take it in more or if I should put dart in it and if so where?
I want to keep the dress looking smooth but at the same time I. want to look like the costume from the Anime



Thank you for the help this the first time I'm doing anything strapless so i so lost as what to do.

HDWen
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HDWen  Friend of PR
Advanced Beginner
AZ USA
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In reply to chibialex <<


Date: 1/13/13 7:05 PM

Quote: chibialex
I relatively new to sewing and could use some help with a strapless bodice dress. i lengthen the bodice from Mcall's M5850.

I put some boning in front and on the side. and took it in but there still a big bubble of fabric in the back











When I don't have the skirt on that moves to the sides when I put the bodice in the elastic waisted skirt I plain to sew to it.











I really don't know if i need to take it in more or if I should put dart in it and if so where?

I want to keep the dress looking smooth but at the same time I. want to look like the costume from the Anime







Thank you for the help this the first time I'm doing anything strapless so i so lost as what to do.

Hi great job on your first one!

It looks like it is too big on you other than the bust -- You can taper the side seams from where it begins to bubble the fabric which will give it a more fitted look like in the photo you want to make.

Maybe begin about 2" down from your bust area and taper in those side seams to better match your body shape.

Hope this helps and it's clear :-)

Debbie

------
I have a great enthusium for sewing, but lack talent to be great.

2013

prostheticsgirl
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prostheticsgirl
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OH USA
Member since 3/6/12
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thumbsup 1 member likes this.
Date: 1/13/13 7:16 PM

I agree that the bodice is too big. Try it on inside out, and start pinning to help you see how much to take in and where. I also think you need a fairly significant sway back adjustment (which is why you're getting so much fabric pooling in the low back). With any strapless garment (and especially one with a full/heavy skirt) I can't encourage you enough to add a waist stay. Here's a basic tutorial

http://www.burdastyle.com/blog/invisible-details-of-a-couture-garment-the-waist-stay

Pamela R
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Pamela R  Friend of PR
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In reply to prostheticsgirl <<


Date: 1/14/13 10:02 AM

Do not turn it inside out to pin as we are not the same size on each side, and anyway this is why you use a muslin , or use the lining as a muslin, then the seams are on the correct side to pin fit.good luck.
I also suggest that when you get the fit right put in an inside waist belt of corded ribbon.

prostheticsgirl
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prostheticsgirl
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Date: 1/14/13 11:50 AM

Pamela is correct that we are rarely perfectly symetrical on each side (I work in medicine and can certainly confirm this), but I do believe turning the bodice inside out is a good starting point for contouring the underbust and side seams. For new sewist changing contours is sometimes difficult to visualize when sitting at the sewing machine, but your pinned seams and a french curve can help you see how to contour this to YOUR body and not the pattern companies perception of what your body is.

I think the first step is addressing the sway back though. This will be your biggest change and the other adjustments can probably be made in the seams, which will be much easier to do effectively once the back bodice shape is correct.

andye
andye  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/14/13 12:16 PM

Might you be better off using a different pattern? M5850's bodice does not extend below the waistline, complicating the task of getting the bodice to fit smoothly over your hips.


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Bernina B330
Feet: 1,2,3,3A,4,5,7,8,10,13,16,18,20, 29,32,35,37,50,64,70,71,82,85,86, 92

couturemom
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couturemom
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Date: 1/14/13 4:45 PM

You may need to take a horizontal pinch out around the waistline where the fabric is bunching. It looks like the fabric is more form-fitting below the waist, so that's pushing the bodice up and causing the bunching. Alternatively, you can let out the side seams below the waist and see if it hangs better. Then you can pin-fit it.

carry
carry
Member since 10/26/07
Posts: 304
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Date: 1/17/13 9:18 PM

1] Is the back waist on the pattern correct for you?
2] Is there enough fabric to fit over the back hip below the zipper join?
3]the fabric is pooling and catching over the hip area because there is too much length and extra width below the bust. This is a dropped waist in your illustration. The gown should fit smoothly over your torso to about an inch above the hip. The elastic is also scrunching it up on the bottom,but I really think its a length problem. Good luck let us hear of your prgress

chibialex
chibialex
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Posts: 2
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Date: 1/29/13 6:39 AM

I shorten the bodice and the seems to have gotten rid of most the wrinkling there still a bit but I'm hoping a dart or two in the back will fix that. I'll repost pic as soon as i can. thank you all for all the help

Elona
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In reply to chibialex <<
thumbsup 1 member likes this.


Date: 1/29/13 6:48 PM

I think that to get a good, smooth, supportive bodice, you will want to read about the art and science of making what's called a 'corselette, a custom-made foundation garment to which the dress is attached (so the poor dress doesn't have to do all the work). Part of the process is described here and here.

Here's another example of the supportive corselette. One thing to note (as you can see in the illustration of the black Dior) is that in fine, couturier-level work, the boning almost never runs over the point of the bust, so as to (a) avoid the dreaded uniboob look, consequently (b) preserving a really pretty bustline.

There are online classes devoted to making a gorgeous gown, but some high-end patterns like this one include instructions for making the inner foundation garment.

Often, you can find patterns of this type more cheaply on ebay or etsy.
-- Edited on 1/29/13 6:52 PM --

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