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Forum > Fitting Woes > Need help to make M6612 work for me ( Moderated by CarolynGM, Deepika)

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Need help to make M6612 work for me
Fitting issues on front
Mary Heckman
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Mary Heckman  Friend of PR
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Date: 1/15/13 12:26 PM

I have tried sewing up McCall's 6612 twice now. I didn't make the pattern as a dress more like a tunic by shortening. However, I am having some fitting issues. First, the front. I really need to do a FBA on the front but the pattern piece is so different I am not sure how to do this adjustment. I also need to make the back longer because when I have the top on, it looks shorter in the back. Not sure why this is happening. I have pictures posted on my blog
McCall's 6612 top fittin issues
If anyone can give me some input I would appreciate it. I like this top to wear to work, since I see alot of RTW tops for plus size similar. Thoughts?

Mary Heckman
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Date: 1/15/13 3:28 PM

Just bumping up to see if anyone can help me

Mufffet
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In reply to Mary Heckman <<


Date: 1/15/13 3:35 PM

Well, here's one thing. If you make the neckline higher - di you do that by adding more to the top so it came up higher or by folding so that it did because you need that length in the back - I would cut the back piece somewhat like a shirt - gradually from the side seam dip it down to a nice lower curve around the bottom back! Also, you probably need to look up the adjustment for the higher back at shoulders thing. It might be that a slash and add at back across the shoulder area is what you need here - some sort of fisheye thing. Have you seen this blog: Lady is a pro at all this adjustment stuff and has so many great tutorials as well:

Stitches and Seams

And here is one specific to what I see in your pictures. Would that they had a better name for this. High Rounded Back perhaps.

Threads Alteration for high rounded back...
-- Edited on 1/15/13 3:39 PM --

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lca
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Date: 1/15/13 3:54 PM

I agree with the high round back adjusment. That would add length to the back.

meleliza
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Date: 1/15/13 8:21 PM

How did you do the fba? By adding a dart or rotating it into the cowl neck? Perhaps you don't need the extra length in the standard fba?

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Melanie

Karla Kizer
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Date: 1/15/13 9:15 PM

I agree with the high rounded back adjustment. More length is needed over the shoulder blades.

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Mary Heckman
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Date: 1/16/13 6:54 AM

I will try to do a round back adjustment and see if that will work to bring it down more in the back. I didn't do a FBA I just moved the 5/8" seam out 1/2" which was totally wrong, which caused the cowl neck to be large and ride to low. I don't know how to even approach the FBA and suggestions?

simplystitches
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In reply to Mary Heckman <<
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Date: 1/16/13 11:34 PM

I think what's confusing is the self facing for the cowl. If you remove that it's just a matter of figuring out the bust point in the main front pattern piece. Once you locate that you can do the fba and then change the facing piece to match the new front and reattach to the pattern.

Cowl pattern pieces can be a bit confusing when you look at them. I know I had a heck of a time trying to figure out how to raise one that was too low.

Debbie

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Date: 1/17/13 4:18 AM

If you think your cowl is lower than you want it to be , than in my views, the neck line is too long. Try to take a wedge out . Tthis is a triangle that has the shorter side on the neckline and goes all the way down to the mid front hipseam of your top. Once this is done you draw a new neckline from the shoulder point to the new centre frontline . It must be square on that new centre frontline ( I do my utmost but i am not sure about the right english terms)

Mary Heckman
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In reply to simplystitches <<


Date: 1/17/13 9:20 AM

So I should fold over as if the facing was down, then cut on the fold to remove. After removing then I find my apex and go from their to add a FBA? After that then I make my folded down piece that I cut off to be the exact as what my changes where and retape?

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