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Forum > Beginner's Forum > Need help in understanding how to sew seam after fit ( Moderated by EleanorSews)

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Need help in understanding how to sew seam after fit
Sewncooknmom
Sewncooknmom
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Date: 1/16/13 0:26 AM

Ok, so I am taking Diana Rupp's class on Craftsy. I am watching the part about altering the straight skirt. She has you first work on a muslin. In her class, she makes a skirt that is a little big to show you how to make it smaller. Let's say that I need to take in a 1 1/2" (I think that's Diana did) on each side. And now the skirt fits well. So far I understand. Then what do I do? When I make the skirt with my good fabric, do I sew a seam of 5/8" plus 1 1/2"? Won't the extra fabric at the seams look strange or to bulky?

I hope that this makes sense! Thank you.

AdaH
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Date: 1/16/13 0:44 AM

you alter the pattern using the muslin as a guide. If you took the side seam in 1 1/2" then you mark that on the pattern and add back the 5/8" seam allowance, not 1 1/2" seam allowance.

Example. Lets say the hip measures 38" on your muslin before you did any alteration, then you took the hip in 1 1/2" on the skirt muslin so your hip measurement is now 36 1/2". You will need to mark the "stitching" line on the pattern to reflect that then add a 5/8" seam allowance.
Hope that helps.

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Ada

Vicsguy
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Date: 1/16/13 9:12 AM

Adjust the cutting line on your pattern pieces by 3/4" on both the front and back side seams. Once you cut these new pieces you'll have 5/8" seam allowances on everything. A second muslin is your friend.

Sewncooknmom
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Date: 1/16/13 2:53 PM

Thank you both. I am starting to get it. But to be sure. :-) Once I know how much I would need to take in, would I cut that amount (minus the 5/8 SA) out of the pattern piece?

EleanorSews
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Date: 1/16/13 3:21 PM

If it were me, I would trace the pattern piece onto maybe interfacing or some other paper type. As I did that, I would remove 3/4" from the side seam. That way I would have the original pattern in case I gained or lost weight and needed to begin again.

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"We don't see things as they are, we see them as we are." Anais Nin

"Attitude is the difference between an adventure and an ordeal." unknown

Fannie Rebecca
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Date: 1/16/13 3:25 PM

"...would I cut that amount (minus the 5/8 SA) out of the pattern piece?"

Yes! Use a ruler or hip curve as a guide when you draw in your new seamline and cutting line on your pattern piece. Also adjust your waistband to match if the new size requires it.

ninacrum
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Date: 1/21/13 1:19 PM

Hijacking this question---what's a hip curve? Some kind of ruler type? Can you explain that step more? Thanks!

dscheidt

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Date: 1/21/13 10:17 PM

Quote: ninacrum
Hijacking this question---what's a hip curve? Some kind of ruler type? Can you explain that step more? Thanks!

A hip curve is a longish ruler (typically about 24"), which is slightly curved, at varying rate along its length. It's used to draw slightly cuved lines, like from waist to hip. See, for instance:
hip curve

There are other curved rulers used in making or modifying patterns, like a french curve, which is a bigger curve, often used on armscyes the like, which are more curved.
Fictionfan
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Date: 1/22/13 1:05 AM

You should be able to ask Diana any question about the class using the class boards. That is part of her job and your class fee has paid for that access, so take advantage of that expertise! My understanding is that there is no end date for these classes. I don't know what the instructor's contracts say, but as long as the instructor is able, she should be available to you for Q&A. If you don't how to post a question and the how-to's aren't clear to you, craftsy's help is fairly quick to respond.

HTH

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Fictionfan

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