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Forum > Pattern Modifications, Design Changes & Pattern Drafting > Simplicity 4025 -- FBA without darts

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Simplicity 4025 -- FBA without darts
Which FBA w/o darts method? Appropriate fabrics?
Sewandwrite  Friend of PR
Maryland USA
Member since 5/16/08
Posts: 950
Skill: Advanced Beginner
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Date: 1/18/13 12:17 PM

Pattern at issue is Simplicty 4025. I am interested in View C and I am size medium.

I do FBAs for all my tops so I assume I'll need to do one for this too.

My upper bust is 36 and my full bust is 39-1/2. The pattern says the finished garment measurement at the bust is 44-1/2.

1. Do I need to do a FBA on this? I don't want to complicate my sewing unnecessarily.

2. If I need to do a FBA, this pattern has no darts -- and I think it's probably best to avoid darts in fleece. I've found two FBA methods for patterns without darts.

One, here, is straightforward. It retains the straight line of the hem and doesn't affect the armhole.

The other is Louise Cutting's method in this Thread's Industry insider video.. It involves the armseye and redrawing the hem so it curves.

I suppose both methods work, but what are the advantages of each? I am hesitant to chop into the shoulder seam and redraw it if the other method works well.

3. Suggested fabrics for this jacket are fleece, denim, corduroy, wool. I thought fleece stretched! I found it odd to have it and a nonstretch material like denim as suggested fabrics.

Would a firm ponte work for this jacket? Could I use a plain cotton for a muslin?

I hope I'm not overthinking this. I'm simply trying to program for success after a bunch of failures on other projects.

Elona  Friend of PR
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In reply to Sewandwrite

Date: 1/18/13 2:48 PM

My measurements are similar to yours, and my gut feeling is that you will not need a FBA. For myself, once I've got four inches of ease, I consider it good. Most fleeces are indeed knits, and I'd guess that the reason fleece as well as wovens are suggested fabrics is that there's enough ease in the design to cover all bases.

However, when working with a new pattern, I always make a muslin to check the fit before cutting into good fabric. Muslin fabric? The advice is to use material with characteristics similar to your fashion fabric, but in this case, with a big, loose garment, I'd probably feel OK using plain cotton. After all, it's not as if this is a close-fitting jacket that depends on stretch fabric to go around curves.


diane s
diane s  Friend of PR
Oregon USA
Member since 8/24/02
Posts: 5102
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Date: 1/18/13 6:00 PM

Sounds like there is alot of ease, do a quick tissue fit and see. Part of the reason for the large amount of ease is the fleece. It's thick and takes up lots of room. If it was my jacket and I did need a fba, I would do it the regular way, making a dart, then rotate the dart to the shoulder near the collar.

My grandmother taught me to sew when I was 10, and I've been sewing ever since.

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